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Colonialism, Chicanery And The KOH-I -NOOR

“Indians paid for the privilege of being conquered by the British”

Shashi Tharoor

I look up to Mr. Tharoor. I wish I had his flair for calling a spade a spade in such a convoluted and grandiose way that even Shakespeare would be put to shame after he figured out what Mr. Tharoor had set put to say (and trust me, good old Will must have had a lot to ponder on). And what I admire the most is that he does it not in his mother tongue, Malayalam, but in English, the very language of the conquerors whom he has set out to conquer in his book, “An Era of Darkness”. My rather dubious claim to fame is that I share this much with the illustrious Mr. Tharoor, I write in English too, not in my ‘Mai Boli,’ Marathi.

With the passing of Queen Elizabeth, the Second, Great Britain has been in the news for quite some time now. Whether the ascension of King Charles the third or the funeral for the late queen, the media has left no stone unturned in covering several aspects of the monarchy. And one picture which has been front and center is that of the coffin of the late monarch, flaunting some of the best jewels in the world, all studded into a stunning crown. The sight of the jewels has sent the Twitterati into a frenzy, voicing a demand which the government of India has already put forth twice, a return of the most famous jewel of them all, the 105 carat Kohinoor.

One of the largest diamonds in the world, it was mined in the Kollur mines of India. As with all precious objects, it has changed hands several times, its bloody trail well woven into the pages of history as it made its way from India to Persia and back via Afghanistan, thanks to the exploits of Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab. The Indians had been unable to hang onto to it during the Persian and Afghan Invasions, but these were tales of conquest.

When the British chose to ‘acquire’ it from the ten- year- old Duleep Singh, the only remaining heir to Ranjit Singh was when chicanery first entered the picture. And thus, it made its way over the seas to Queen Victoria to become part of the Crown Jewels, where it has remained since 1850. Of course, India made two demands for its return, first in 1947 after gaining independence and again in 1953 during the coronation of Queen Elizabeth the Second. Of course, the possession of the diamond was termed non-negotiable and the demand was summarily rejected.

But why the Kohinoor? Because it is not just a diamond for a large section of the populace. It is a symbol of all that was wrong with our part of the world for the better part of the last century, the vestiges of which we are still trying to fight off. It symbolizes the yoke of colonialism, during which we lost the better part of our identity and heritage, to have it replaced by an apologetic attitude to our beliefs and culture. It is a symbol of oppression by a race who for reasons unknown placed so much belief in their infallibility that they still refuse to acknowledge the horrendous effects and loss of lives they wrought on those whom they believed to be ‘leading towards the light of Western Emancipation’.

 It is stained by the blood of the victims of several man-made famines, the most infamous being The Bengal Famine of 1943, thanks to the policies of an unapologetic racist and imperialist like Winston Churchill, who is lauded as one of the saviors of the free world, thanks to winning the Second World War. Its sparkle hides An Era of Darkness, for the thousands of Indian soldiers, forced to fight a war which was not of their choosing. Its facets reflect the tears of the hapless loom workers who lost their thumbs and livelihood so that the colonists could usher in a new ‘Industrial Era’ in their country.

It is rare that a single object captures the imagination of millions for so long, but the Kohinoor has achieved the feat. It inspires not just awe, but also revulsion when one thinks of the innumerable lives lost for the realization of the dream of a free India. What we now want is for the world to acknowledge what was done to us. That while the thought of the ‘Commonwealth’ is all nice and fuzzy, there is nothing common about the wealth which was looted by charlatans who now dare to preach about ‘human rights’ and want bygones to remain bygones.

History is funny because it still remains an imperfect record of what actually came to pass throughout our long tryst with British rule and its excesses. Often written by or at the behest of winners, it hardly ever gives us the real picture of what was so that we can reforge what will be. It is up to us therefore to from a collective consciousness as a nation and decide that we will no longer tolerate that which denigrates us, which tries to prove us inferior, whether the color of our skin or the veracity of our beliefs.

Whether the British develop their own much touted sense of ‘fair-play’ or not and choose to acknowledge their excesses matters little. In all fairness, we know that the Kohinoor will never be returned. Until then however, we have the satisfaction of knowing that an Indian who not until so long ago was discriminated against for the color of her skin was an honored invitee to the funeral of the late Queen. We have chosen to shake off the yolk of slavery in the real sense because we are a Republic, where any Indian irrespective of caste or creed can be our head of state, unlike our ex-rulers who still maintain a hide-bound tradition of heredity, exemplified in our current president, Shrimati Draupadi Murmu. And thus, perhaps the Kohinoor has served its purpose without returning to the land of its birth. A constant reminder about the slaves who chose to make better lives for themselves, giving a whole new meaning to ‘Uneasy lies the head which wears a crown.’.

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The Ignoramus On Instagram

“Oh dear! I have forgotten to soak the urad dal again! It’s going to be another day of instant idli for breakfast”, I knew that Idlis and Instagram did not mix and my constant obsession over Instagram had led to this not- so-minor household incident which would draw howls of protest from the spouse and the offspring. They hated the ‘instant’ bits which had crept into life. Instant breakfast and meal mixes, instant noodles and quick fixes, instant loans of all kinds and the instant gratification brought about by posting a picture of everyday food on the internet, cunningly styled with an old tea-towel and a sprig of flowers and termed ‘vintage, home-made and slow cooked’. More often than not, I strongly suspected that the food in question had been ordered from the restaurant at the corner and passed off as their own by the denizens who formed the ‘kitty and cooking club’ in our housing society.

Pompously named ‘Sundar Bharat’, the complex boasted four buildings named after the four metros, Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai. There were rumors that Ekta developers who had built the complex had recently bought the adjacent plot of land and Bharat would soon be home to Bangalore and Hyderabad as well. It was lucky that the residents were not sorted according to their home states. And many people were left rather confused when they stepped into the lift in Kolkata only to be greeted by several people arguing volubly in Gujarati. The complex lived up to its name though, most of the denizens got along well, all festivals were celebrated with gusto and a general spirit of bonhomie prevailed most of the times.

I normally thanked my stars ten times a day to be living in such a place. It could only be described as a haven by someone like me, who had migrated here from Mysore after marriage. My small- town sensibilities had been overwhelmed in the early days, but now after eighteen years, I liked to think that I was handling Mumbai life like a pro. From haggling with the fisher-woman to handling the raddiwala with his crooked teeth and even more crooked weighing scale to nipping on and off the local trains, bawling toddler in tow, I had done it all. But, old feelings, like old habits die hard. Whenever I was confronted with something new, I could not but help feel a little blue. Change did not come that well to me and I just HAD to put my foot in it a couple of times, before embracing it wholeheartedly. This was especially true when it came to any form of technology. We were oil and water, technology and I. We did not mix.

Technology was my Nemesis. A fact which was bandied about with much relish in the family. It brought a rueful shake of the head and a wry smile on the spouse’s lips. The offspring offered a deep eyeroll or the know-it-all smirk. In fact, the smirk which I saw on her lips when I had just finished a complex piece of copy-pasting and uploading after much sweating and swearing made me want to wipe it off with a well- placed smack on the head, but the fact that she was seventeen and much taller than me, made me think ten times before putting any silly plans into ill warranted action.

I was the queen of the email and the SMS. I handled WhatsApp and Facebook with the ease of an old pro, but alas, every time I finally conquered a bit of tech, the good folks of that far away haven, the inviting and infamous Silicon Valley made sure to come up with something touted to be even newer and faster and of course better. I felt like a mountaineer who had hoisted herself gasping and sweating up the sheer face of an impossibly tall peak hoping to find herself on at least the shoulder of the mountain, only to find herself nestled at its knee, with a long trudge looming ahead.

It did not help that my mother was better at technology than I was. She was much more comfortable chatting to my daughter about ‘pinging’ the necessary people, ‘DM’ing them (it took me a while to even learn the lingo. I thought DM meant Deputy Manager for ages), and bandying words like scanning documents and sending PDFs and JPEGs. Her status was updated regularly. Mine had been the same since the advent of WhatsApp.

The latest blots on my horizon were ‘Insta’ and ‘Snap’. They made me long to instantly snap at people, especially the ladies of my cooking club, who had formed a group on Instagram. ‘Sassy Serves’, they called it. In the good old days, we had gathered at each other’s houses once every two weeks and sampled the offering of whoever happened to be hosting. But the pandemic had put a spanner in our well-oiled works. Now, we were only allowed to virtually slurp at everything yummy from the safe confines of our homes. In the early days of the pandemic, it had been a WhatsApp group with a Zoom meeting to stay connected, but of late, Lata who just had to muscle her way into everything and become king or should we say queen-pin of the whole operation (and who was a tech-whiz, by the way) had discovered the joys of filters and open groups provided by Instagram. Needless to say, the whole group had ‘Instantly’ upgraded. My feeble protests about the lockdown being lifted so that we could now actually meet face-to-face had died an untimely death in the knell of the “Dahling! It’s the new normal!” which all the good ladies had trilled in unison. Sheer laziness I called it.

I jabbed a few buttons listlessly now and then, but to no avail. I only succeeded in ‘liking’ the offerings of others through the offspring’s account, a fact she was not amused by. “You will embarrass me! I have two hundred followers and now, thanks to you, they think I am a member of the ‘Aunty Cooking Club’. How uncool is that!”. I think it was this imminent threat of appearing ‘uncool’ that she took the time to start me off on my own Instagram journey, armed with an account which went by the ‘hip’ name of ‘Gourmet Goddess’. I cooked biryani for her immediately. That was how it was, quid pro quo. She had also thrown in a picture of my grandmother’s old brass spice holder in the starter kit of my first Instagram story. I could hardly believe the picture when I saw it. “In your face, Lata!” was how I described my day.

A couple of days passed in a happy haze. Since I had begun to follow the ‘Sassy Severs’, they followed me right back. As a group and as individuals. By the end of a few eventful days, I had garnered sixty followers, thanks to my spicy Granny or rather my Granny’s spice box. But euphoria was soon followed by gloom. I had an account no doubt, but was yet to master the art of clicking, filtering and posting the pictures of my culinary capers. The offspring had been very clear about  it in  the ‘post or get lost’ part of her lecture. “You have to post regularly if you want to be popular, or people will unfollow you quickly”, she had said ominously. But that had not been the end of it. “Keep it simple until you get the proper hang of it. Remember, a picture is worth a thousand words. DO NOT post anything which will make me regret letting you near Insta!”.

A couple of weeks passed in the happy haze of posting regular pictures. The crème brulee garnered quite a few likes as did the modaks and rabri. My salad bowl looked delectable as did the rava dosa and Mysore bondas.  Gourmet Goddess had been quick off the mark. But soon, I was chafing at my pedestrian postings, especially because Lata had upped the ante. She was posting collages of five course meals with quirky captions and head shots of herself. I was sure people drooled more over her perfectly coiffed hair and beautifully manicured nails as much as they did over her culinary offerings. I began to pester the offspring to teach me to make collages and she did, if only to get me off her back. “I think you have got the basics, but remember the golden rule, LOOK BEFORE YOU POST”, she said, before turning away firmly and shutting herself up with her books. Her exams were approaching.

It was this sudden frenzy of collage making which made me forget the urad dal soaking and the curd setting and several other things besides. The spouse and the offspring braced themselves for a spell of turbulent weather because they knew that I would not rest until I got the collage bug out of my system.

It was a wonderful morning. My recipe for oats dosa paired with a delectably hot red chili chutney had turned out perfectly. All that remained was the collage. I picked out a generic picture of pouty lips painted fire engine red and took a few quick pics of the blood-red chutney in a bone white ceramic bowl. A couple of red chilies alongside, the dosa on a matching plate, all arranged on a bamboo table mat and voila! I was done. The filter made everything look like the offerings from a Michelin starred restaurant. I wrote out a caption. “Red hot and spicy! Chili chutney and oats dosa. The Gourmet Goddess offers spice and health!”. I made what I thought was my best collage yet.

I was soaring high as I posted it. Putting the phone away, I made up my mind to be become a cleansed person, no longer seeking ‘instagratification’ on Instagram. And I resolved not to touch my phone until evening. The first inkling of disaster came when the offspring actually called in the middle of the day to ask if I had taken leave of my senses. Never a good sign. “Check your Instagram account, and delete it immediately”, she said in sepulchral tones.

With trembling fingers, I opened my page to admire my handiwork. My collage, my proud creation which I had posted instantly looked back at me. The edges of the caption and the most important picture of all of the food had been cropped off as the offspring had warned. It now read, “Red, Hot and Spicy! The Gourmet Goddess offers Spice”, accompanied by a pair of pouty lips painted fire engine red.

And thus ended the brief romance of the ignoramus with Instagram. Ignonimously!

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The God Of All Things

“The beginning is the most important part of the work”

So said Plato, the wise Greek. But we, we went one better and have a God devoted entirely to beginnings, so that all our work is carried out without unnecessary hitches, glitches and near misses!

He is totally suited to the new millennium. Besides being many-armed and kitted out with myriad weapons, he is multifaceted and a multi-tasker par excellence. Although beginnings are His forte`, He controls many other celestial departments. Obstacles need removing? He is right there in a jiffy. Need extra help in the knowledge department? ‘Fikar Not’, as they say. Need help in the arts? Got it! Need some stories to tell the kids about a little God who is kind and cuddly? Look no further. Your search ends with Him. You need it and He has it.

Such is Ganapati or Ganesh, a universally worshipped and beloved deity of the Hindu pantheon who also finds mention in some sects of Buddhism. Such is His reach, that He is worshipped in Sri Lanka, Nepal, Thailand and Indonesia and has travelled as far afield as the Philippines. He is not just revered and respected, but also loved. You find him in the likeliest of places (no Hindu home is complete without His presence) and in the unlikeliest too (think vehicles, museums, notebooks of Indian students abroad, on bags, key rings and even on Indonesian currency).

Perhaps many people (especially Westerners) are befuddled if not downright alarmed at the sight of this divinity with the body of an overweight human and the head of an elephant, but it is His calm visage which brings comfort to many. He embodies the philosophy of the ‘Atma’ or soul of all creatures being one, being universal. He is the combination of opposites, a divine example of the concept of duality. He is proof that opposites can, not only attract and coexist peacefully, but meld together beautifully to create something larger and better, a whole definitely more than the sum of its parts. His lore teaches that life is what we make of it, irrespective of looks and what we do or do not possess. His message is that there is always a new beginning, a new dawn after every darkest hour.

It is no coincidence therefore, that when the crescendo of the raging monsoons is waning to gentle showers, when there is the happy anticipation of the bounty of nature in the form of the harvest, one of the calmest of all the gods presides over a colourful, charming and wonderfully chaotic festival held in His honour, chiefly in the south- western states of Maharashtra, Karnataka and Goa. His much- heralded arrival is one of the most highly anticipated events of the Hindu festival calendar and preparations begin months in advance. Idol makers, especially the more sought after and reputed ones begin their work well in advance, so that no one returns disappointed that his Ganesh idol was not ‘just so’.

This festival has an interesting feature. It is celebrated both publicly in the form of ‘community pandals’ which can be as small as the tiny ones in the lobby of a housing society to some large ones which have gained name and fame all over India, the ‘Lalbaugh cha Raja’ in Mumbai being a prime example and privately with many homes and families hosting their own Ganesh. But, where ever He resides, His status is irrevocably that of a favourite and much anticipated guest. His advent is a blessing, an honour He bestows on those whom He favours. While most families host Him for anywhere between one-and- a-half to ten days, ranging through five and seven days, it is His arrival rather than the duration of His stay which is of the essence.

I have fond childhood memories about this festival, the excitement if setting up a special ‘Makhar’ or pandal and decorating it with bunting and strings of fairy lights of all kinds, interspersed with seasonal fruits and berries, without which the decorations were deemed incomplete. It was an age of innocence. Yes, we used Gasp! Plastic in our decorations, but we laid them away carefully after the festival to be reused next year. No one had heard or cared about Greta or Greenpeace. It was just the glory of Ganapati. And yes, we were greener because we reused everything, from the pandal to the decorations and even the bits of string used to hang them up!

Fresh flowers, a special kind of grass called ‘Durva’ and five types of leaves, called ‘Patri’ formed an essential of the pooja and most households summarily dispatched youngsters to procure the same, which meant official time to frolic in all the gardens and most of the meadows in the neighbourhood. Yes, we were lucky that ‘urbanization’ with its manicured lawns and curated gardens had not made as big a headway and most gardens did not even boast respectable fences, much less paths. We filled our baskets with glee in addition to the necessary flowers and leaves, scrapes, pricks by thorns and insect bites notwithstanding.

 You will rarely find a God as devoted to the finer things of life as Ganpati. A complete foodie! What could be more delightful? Other than the special ‘Modaks’, ‘Idlis’, ‘Kapa or Fodi of Fagala (spiny gourd)’ and a delicious mixed vegetable stew called ‘Khatkahte’ all prepared in His honour and for us to gorge on unabashedly! Combine this with the evening ‘Arati’ and you had another heap of delicacies, all vying for special spots, ‘Rava Ladoos’, special banana ‘Halwa’, mithai of all kinds, topped off with a large handful of puffed rice or ‘Kurmure’ mixed with dainty slivers of fresh coconut. Provided you were not tasked with producing the said stuff, you could easily take to imitating His body type after a few days of hearty feasting.

The evening Arati was an event in a class by itself, with several voices singing His praises in perfectly discordant harmony, some mumbling, others stumbling (many memories gave up the ghost because these prayers were not sung as chorus for the rest of the year) and yet others simply lending a tone by much enthusiastic rhythmic clapping, while stubbornly refusing to open their mouths. Of course, back in the day, the door to the massive halls of the even more massive ancestral house were kept open all day and screen doors were not dreamt of. The recently concluded rains meant verdant shelter for swarms of mosquitoes and the singing on occasion was accompanied by shuffling or hopping from foot to foot which could easily be mistaken for ritual dancing!

And then there was the excitement of the fireworks which were a major part of the festival. Before Priyanka Chopra or Sonam Kapoor or their dogs require hospitalization for an exacerbation of asthma or acute deafness, let me clarify that all the kids pooled their fireworks and carefully divided them into small lots to be lit on as many days of the festival as possible and then again, for only about half an hour or so. Since restraint and conservative traits came to us naturally and on all days of the year, we refused to be hobbled by artificial ones, just the way we refused to run amok on New Year’s Eve with the fire work displays.

It was with heavy hearts that we bid adieu to our Godly guest, with many actually sobbing unabashedly at the thought of having to wait for a whole year for Him to return. We meant it when we said “Pudchya Varshi Lavkar Ya (Return earlier next year)”, because the house felt that much emptier and drearier after He departed, lovingly deposited into the nearest waterbody, which in our case happened to be the well. Before you come up with a gasp of horror and say “Oh, but haven’t you heard of water pollution?”, let me assure you, most houses boasted wells in the backyard and held private immersion ceremonies. Nothing was exaggerated, neither the number of pandals in a given town or city, nor the size of the idols. This was the age before Netflix and Disney Hot Star, you see. OTT had not been heard of, much less seen. Everything was as it was meant to be. A beloved God, his devout followers and a few days of festivity which purified both the body and the mind.

The times may have changed, families may have moved away and modernity may have crept in everywhere. But Ganapati has adapted too. He is happy whether He is made of chocolate and immersed in milk to be distributed as prasad, He is happy in a green pandal of banana leaves, He is happy to be a metal idol which can be reused the following year and He is happy to share selfie space with his devotees. He is always ready to begin a wise new trend, for He is the God of beginnings after all. His message is eternal: You can always begin anew and find wisdom in whatever you do!

Even as my family and I celebrate a centenary of this beloved festival this year and whoop “Ganpati Bappa Morya”, we know that He is our God of all things not just for a hundred years, but for millenia!

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The Tale Of Two Salmans

We forge the chains we wear in life

Charles Dickens

Salman Rushdie is no stranger to controversy. In fact, he has served as its poster child since my childhood. He has had to dive into unfathomed depths of living incognito, only to surface occasionally like a breaching whale, has had to seek protection from Scotland Yard, have his children visit him only at midnight and has had his painstakingly composed verses termed ‘Satanic’. It was a different matter when he termed them so himself. They were his brainchild, his creation to raise or destroy. But to have a price on his head for more than three decades is not cricket, as the Brits, whose isle he calls home, would say. The long arm of the fatwa issued against him caught up with him in New York a few weeks ago, much to the horror of everyone. Hunted down in the Big Apple! In the land of free speech! What was the world coming to?

Of course, the perpetrator was caught, but it means little for the aging writer who stands to lose an eye and has spent several days on the brink. What strikes one as strange is that terrorizing people who say things you don’t like seems to have become the accepted norm rather than the exception when one particularly sensitive religion which was birthed in blood shed in the Middle east is concerned. Perhaps Salman Rushdie was far too trenchant in his remarks. Perhaps he acted with malicious intent and did hurt sentiments. But a price on his head and one which was almost extracted after thirty years makes one wonder who is wrong and who is the wronged one here!

Considering that Salman Rushdie was born in India, several Western fingers were pointed in an easterly direction when his book ‘The Satanic Verses’ was swiftly banned in the subcontinent in 1988 following a meek ‘toe the line’ capitulation by the then ruling dispensation. It was a victory for those forces who believed that might was right, for those who carried their religions on their sleeves. Salman Rushdie, however, had his moment in the sun as a brave heart who did not fear to speak his mind. His quote “To read a 600- page novel and then say that it has deeply offended you: well, you have done a lot of work to be offended”, is a classic. He rightly points out that seeing a book which offends him in a bookstore does NOT give him the right to torch said bookshop.

This is the tale of Salman the first, a man who unfortunately had to keep a date with Nemesis, whose fate caught up with him, in his twilight years half a world away from the place where he was declared persona non grata thanks to a blind world which refuses to call out religious fanaticism even when it is staring them in the eye.

A buff, arrogant looking individual, who swaggers as if he owns the earth and all that is in it (apologies to Rudyard Kipling for the plagiarism) and who has so far stayed quite a few jumps ahead of the law of the land, Tyche’s favorite child, that is Salman Khan. This controversial self- proclaimed Bhai or Big Brother at large has often found himself in the eye of a storm of his own making. He has courted controversy because in the business in which he dabbles (if you call it that), no publicity is ever bad.

From running over pavement dwellers while under the influence to running over some black buck merely because the fancy took him to violence against women, he’s been there, done that. But the reason why he is merely termed ‘wayward’ or a boy sowing his wild oats (at the age of 56? Get real, people!) is because he is ‘Being Human’ of course! Court judgements are overturned before the ink dries on the paper and Bhai enjoys the ‘Bail Life’ rather than the jail life! If you have a fan following longer than the tail of Haley’s comet, you, my friend can apparently do no wrong in the universe. Your crimes cannot catch up with you even if they live right next door, forget half a world away.

Yes, his heart is probably in the right place, yes, he probably does a lot of charity and social service, but that does not and should not make him larger than life, placing him above the law of the land. The larger- than- life Robin Hoodesque story of Salman the second sets one’s teeth on edge at the sheer injustice of it all.

Every good tale ends a moral. And what do we learn? That today it is the popular perception of your thoughts which determine whether you are right or wrong, the facts of the case be damned! Take on the powerful and pay the price, ride rough-shod over the helpless and see yourself rise!

And that is why I often find myself thinking of Dickens when he wrote ‘A Tale of Two Cities’, “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair, we had everything before us, we had nothing before us”.

Our own Dickensian world beckons us to answer who was right and who was wrong, who faced a travesty of justice and who made a mockery of it in this Tale of Two Salmans!

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Poem

Dawn

A glow on the horizon,
Tells the night to begone
Darkness banished to its realm,
It is the advent of dawn!

Hope spreads its gossamer wings
Bringing light where there was none
A little might be lost
But a lot has been won.

Warmth glows its defiance
Against the tendrils of cold
Uplifting the spirit
When the darkness takes hold

The horizon melts the shackles
Of all that is bleak
The light works its magic
Claiming the shadows as weak

No gloaming lasts forever,
The sun is never always gone
Come the darkest hour
It is always followed by dawn!

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Aisa Des Hai Mera

“India will reveal to you the places in your heart that must be purified”

Erin Reese

Alight at any of the international airports (which seem to be mushrooming all over the place, faster than well…mushrooms) after even a brief sojourn in foreign lands, and presto! you know you are in the land of your birth or ancestors, as the case may be. Everything in India seems richer somehow. While you climb out of the relatively insipid environs of your 747 or Airbus or even the private Gulfstream, a bouquet of aromas gather round, long before you are presented with the bouquet of fresh flowers or the more traditional garlands which sundry relatives or business associates may have got you. These range from attars, whiffs of sweet and/or savory snacks or the sweaty armpit of your co passenger. There are very few places in the world which declare their presence with such brash insouciance.

That we are a country of over a billion people is of course reiterated at every step, whether it is the jostling crowds or the need of the people to jostle even where there is plenty of room for everyone. I once read somewhere that India has been blessed with the impatience gene, and it should thus come as no surprise that Indians leap before they look. Leap out of seats, seatbelts, planes, trains and automobiles. It can be extremely disconcerting if you come from let us say, a strait-laced country where people actually follow rules and are hung up on the concept of ‘personal space’. Once you have won the battle of the baggage claim, you stagger out into the embrace of the ‘des’, where you see all that needs purifying at extremely close quarters.

Depending on the time you choose to visit this land, you are greeted by weather patterns galore. Hot, hotter or hottest. Cold, colder or coldest. Thunder and lightning or raining cats, dogs or even cattle. You battle with the elements and thankfully sink into your wheels to carry you to your destination only to realize that though the battle has been won, the war has just begun. And traffic always wins. You may be reminded of the song ‘Mother knows best’. Well, here traffic not only knows best, but also knows all. Horns honk, engines idle, brakes bawl and screech, dogs bark and in the middle of it all, the holy cow sits, placidly chewing the cud. The symbol of this des of ours, overwrought, yet unflappable, laid back even while in a hurry. Yes, it is a country where controversies court you at every step.

 Another aspect which never ceases to amaze or bewitch is the rich vibrancy of the colors. Greens, blues, yellows, reds and pinks, the more vibrant the better. The cringe-worthy thoughts of garishness and loudness are for the wimps. That is the general motto of the land which even devotes a festival to this riot of hues. You might join in in the general mirth or shrink back in horror at getting in the face of perfect strangers, but we have our own slogan of ‘Holi for all’, no matter how unholy some find it. And to cap it all, we have our own (rather unhealthy) obsession with the basic black and white. We prefer white in the skin, though we are not averse to collecting a wad or two of black money, until the tax man turns up, asking to fill his brown satchel with the ill- gotten gains. This of course, lies in the gray zone of negotiations, which is both dark and shady.

Not just India, but the rest of the world is now familiar with the ‘quick-fix’ solutions that abound here. Better known as the ‘Great Indian Jugaad’. From multiple appliances plugged into a single and sadly spluttering outlet to makeshift shanties, from pirated versions of anything under the sun to hole in the wall repair shops which can fix anything from broken bones to laptops, we are nothing if not innovative when it comes to saving some time and money. Almost everything has a cheaper, hardier and upcycled version and we are irresistibly drawn to it like iron filings to a magnet. That said, India is also the land of bargains. People here have honed it into a fine art. Need to pick up sabzi or fish or clothes? Start off with either double the actual, or half the actual price depending on whether you are at the seller or buyer end of the spectrum and ten minutes of eloquence later, both part with self-satisfied smirks of driving a hard bargain. I’m sure we have managed to convince Putin of throwing in a couple of thousand tons of coal with all the oil that is being imported.

Perhaps it has got something to do with lying in the tropical and temperate zones, but the ‘des’ is also a land of warmth. It is not just seen in the weather, but in the people too! In fact, Indians may be guilty of over-familiarity much to the consternation of Teutons, Scandinavians and the like, but the bonhomie and good cheer which generally prevails engulfs everyone who comes here, whether they like it or not. Visit any home and the question which you are invariably greeted with is ‘have you eaten?’ irrespective of the time of day! Even if you reply in the affirmative, some food is always brought out and pressed upon you, with the hosts being mightily offended if you refuse to at least nibble on the offering.

But what strikes one the most is the sheer resilience of the people. It is a land where ‘having next to nothing’ is a reality for a large chunk of the populace. With the people vastly outnumbering the available resources, living hand to mouth takes on a whole different meaning. But somehow, we thrive. Is it will power? The obstinacy of a mule? Or a philosophical approach? Several researchers have tried and failed at finding out what makes India tick. And it is this enigma which brings people to our shores in droves. For once you succumb to the magic that is this country, you are hooked for life.

We are on the verge of celebrating seventy-five years of our existence in the modern world, but the idea that is India has existed in the minds in the minds of mankind for millennia. Even as most of us participate willingly in the ‘Har Ghar Tiranga’ campaign, it is time that nay-sayers realize that though there are several things which need bettering in this des, we can at least unite under our flag, which consequently will make all citizens treat each other as their own. This might be a small but significant step in weeding out all that stops us from getting ahead.

As we wish each other a Happy Independence Day, it is time to contemplate on

‘Jo koi aaye yahan pe,

Iske rang me dhal jaaye

Iske liye na koi paraya

Ye sabko gale lagaye,

Aisa des hai mera, Aisa des hai mera!’

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Articles Lifestyle Article

(Molotov) Cocktail!

“Everyone has a hidden talent they don’t know about until the tequila is poured”

Think cocktails, and wondrous visions of delicious stuff in elegant flutes, coupes and cocktail glasses swim into view, bedazzling one with their contents. Many are left shaken AND stirred to the depths of their souls (since not everyone has Bond’s panache or cool). Without a doubt, the cocktail hour advertised in so many uber chic establishments for w(h)ining and dining is one of the more brilliant marketing heists ever pulled. The mere whiff of a complimentary cocktail and guzzlers gather by the gazillion.

You can get a Hanky- Panky down, while comfortably ensconced in a Sidecar. And who needs to worry about mundane little details like doctors when despite Last Words, you can always be brought back from beyond the veil by the Corpse Reviver? Feeling like a Zombie? Well, just get on a Moscow Mule and you will be the Bee’s Knees in no time. It is easy to tour Manhattan, explore Long Island via the ice-tea route and sling Singapore into the bag as well. Well, enough of the playing with the names of cocktails before a strait-laced teetotaler like yours truly is mistaken for hic! a dipsomaniac like Captain Haddock!

Humans, as we all know, are social animals. Unless you are one of those few precocious souls who truly seek enlightenment and communion with a higher power, or have been possessed by William Wordsworth’s worthy spirit and wish to see the dancing daffodils flash before your inward eye, you will not find much solace or bliss in solitude. You will tend to congregate in herds, droves, gaggles or perhaps even murders?  and hobnob with your own kind.  And what better situation to do this than a party and a cocktail one at that? A perfect place to let your hair down, put on your best war paint, short frocks and rocks, network busily and ‘build up your contacts’, for doesn’t the world work like that these days? and get up to all kinds of wild shenanigans cloaked in the relative anonymity of large crowds and the happy thought of someone who is not you, not only getting down to the nitty-gritty of organizing the whole shebang, but also footing the bill.

Some of us however, are cursed with a recalcitrance which borders on the phobic. We take our cues from Bertie Wooster and set a nor’ nor’ east course if we get the slightest hint that a party is taking place sou’ sou’ west. It is not we do not like to interact with people, but we refuse to be crowd pleasers or let our guard (much less our hair) down when surrounded by relative strangers. Our conversation can be sparkling and scintillating, but we prefer to do that without the prop of a beaker of bubbly. Anonymity is not our license or ‘buzz’ for raucous behavior and only serves to put our guard up! For us, these cocktail parties mean only one type of cocktail, the good ol’ Molotov!The one which literally goes bang, before you can say ‘New Year’.

Being surrounded by crowds ‘Sha-la-laing’ or ‘Zing-Zing-Zingating’ with an overbearing DJ and zealous hostess/host exhorting everyone onto the dance floor to show off their moves (never mind if they succeed in accidentally beaning someone over the head or taking someone else’s eye out with their overflowing cup of joy) makes some of us feel as if we are carefully negotiating a mine-field, blindfolded. One false move and you will never know what hit you in the face! We look around with a sense of wonder at what people who are perfectly sane most of the time are capable of when the ‘happy juice’ gets going in their veins. The Romans had it right all along, ‘In vino, veritas’. In wine, lies the truth.

It is at times like these that I paraphrase the lyrics of ‘How do you solve a problem like Maria?’ from ‘The Sound of Music’. All I can think of is “When I’m with them and confused,out of focus and bemused, and I NEVER know exactly where Iam….!” This brings to mind my recent tryst with destiny at a rather ‘large do’ hosted by a mover and shaker. If I’d hoped that there would be at least some of my kind (read wallflowers) clustered around, with whom I could at least exchange a smile in passing if not anything else, I was in for a rude shock.

As a conscientious ENT surgeon, I make it a point to remind all my patients about the hazards of noise pollution, even printing it on my prescription sheet and the fact that a party being held on the second floor could be heard in the parking lot did not bode well for my rather sensitive sensibilities. The sights went one better. A jostling crowd around the bar tender, tall tables topped with glass, awash in glasses of every kind, filled with enough stuff to give you a high by its mere sight. As if this was not enough, once people got going on the good stuff as well as on the dance floor, they miraculously lost their moorings. The sight of a well -respected, much older couple setting the dance floor on fire (after indulging and then some) left me wondering if I was aging in dog- years and fearing for their safety as well as that of those in their vicinity (on account of the wildly flailing limbs).

If I was looking for entertainment, I had found it in the near constant whistling (I am still on therapy for deafness, how ironic!), the throng who downed enough shots to shoot down a Rafale, an older woman with enough war-paint which would require several knives to scrape off and a sort of conga line which grew like a caterpillar from the dance floor to engulf the entire room before you could say ‘beat’. Oh yes, Molotov was here all right, ignited and whirling around the room spreading merry mayhem, one bang, one crash at a time! I spent the evening neatly side stepping all the merry makers who seemed keen to set a record of stepping on as many toes as possible, without making too much of a spectacle of myself. As I rued to myself later,if I had been expecting the quiet class of the cocktail hour, I was looking for it in the wrong place!

When it was finally time to go home, I staggered out, unfortunately punch-drunk, knowing exactly how the shell-shocked soldiers of trench warfare during the first world war must have felt. I knew that I would never take the peace of a quiet night for granted ever again. A feeling of kinship for Wordsworth and his penchant for solitude sprung up, for who knows, before he retired to his ‘couch’,he might have been a victim of such a ‘do’ too!

To meet with fellow beings and destress is very essential in the modern world. Perhaps many people would swear by the adage ‘We all deserve an alcoholiday’.  While it would be wrong to sit in judgement on the ‘party scene’, it is equally wrong to do away with all the norms which make us civil society. Eat, drink and be merry by all means, but with an eye on what is enough and what is excess.Because aMartini can turn into a Molotov in the twinkling of an eye and a mellow evening can be literally set on fire before you can say ‘incineration’.

One of the best reasons why you should keep your wits about you (health reasons notwithstanding) instead of getting carried away with the flow is that you should KNOW when you are having a good time!

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Stories

The Long Road Home

PART ONE

The predawn was evident only to those who looked for it. ‘JhunjuMunju’ according to the locals. A gradual lightening of the darkness in the east. Stars still dotted the sky, like little children reluctant to leave the playground. The only sound breaking the expectant hush was the mournful whistle of a freight train, winding its lonely way to some far- off destination. Busy, but alone. Rama Bai smiled to herself. She listened for that whistle each day. They were kindred spirits, the train and she. Busy hauling loads which benefited others more than themselves. To her ears, the whistle always seemed to carry a note of sympathy. A constant companion in a chameleon world.

She tried to ease herself into the familiar comfort of her morning rituals, but her wandering mind refused to obey. One phone call from a foreign phone-number was all that it had taken to for the dormant seed of hope to begin its sprouting in her robustly tired heart. Perhaps to be met with crushing disappointment. How many times had she seen it happen with the seeds she sowed on her lands? The good red earth, tilled and ready, a drenching few days of rain, the sowing and the hope. And then, nothing but the interminable wait for the rest of the nourishing showers, empty eyes turned to the gradually emptying sky as the clouds were driven away by a wayward wind, bent on mischief. Accompanied by a gradual shriveling of the hardy seed, as it gave up its futile efforts with an inward gasping sigh. The human heart was no different.

Her blood, it seemed had not thinned as much as she would have liked despite the daily dose of aspirin, thanks to her little ‘heart episode’, she thought wryly. It still answered the call of its own. Hope always sprang eternal whenever she heard from Raghav’s family.Anand would be angry when he heard about it. But if she had no choice, neither did he. Raghav had never been meant for them. He was like the sun, too big to be contained in a lamp. Meant to light everything by his brilliance. Belonging to everybody and yet, nobody.

He had left for school at the district headquarters at the age of eight, the village school-master insisting that he knew more than the teachers who taught at the taluka high school. From then on, there had been no looking back. A scholarship to Bangalore and then one to Germany. It had been something of a relief when he had finally settled in Hamburg. It had become increasingly difficult for her to pronounce the names of the various places where he had lived, when questioned by pesky relatives. Various branches of the clan had turned pea green with envy at his success. Fueled by sugary cups of tea well laced with gossip, the glee with which they spoke of Helga, the ‘foren- gori’, whom Raghav had married,were a mirror of their narrow minds, long conditioned byprovincial living which was the hall mark of rural Indiain the 60s and 70s.

Raghav insisted on visiting her every year. Helga had initially visited every three years or so. One of the happiest times had been when they had first brought Gautami along as a four-month baby. However, with the passing of Achyut Rao, the patriarch, her husband, there had been a gradual drifting apart. Two sons and two daughters, thought Rama Bai, but now, it felt as if the village folk were more her family. The recent pandemic had not helped. Travel bans, lockdowns, isolation, her aging eyes looked at everything with an equanimity born of need, but nurtured by desperate resilience.

 With a start, she looked at the light creeping into her room. She seemed to be losing herself in her thoughts, more and more frequently.Now that dawn had broken, the garden which stretched behind the mansion, was a riot of pink and white, most of the rose bushes in full bloom. Her farmhands were already at work in the distant corner of the half acre garden, expertly plucking the roses with both hands, tossing them into baskets tied to their backs. They would be made into the Gulab Jal and Attar for which the tiny hamlet of Balewadi was famous. The scent of the attar had spread far and wide from her home to all over the district and then the state. She wished that it would mask the whiff of soured relations within the little world of her family.

PART TWO

Rama Bai’s life and soul now lay in her beloved garden and the thirty odd acres of farmland which lay just beyond. Red earth, clear streams and the deep blue of the sky. This had been her world for as long as she could remember. The Inamdars of Balewadi were an old family, having lived in this rural corner of Belagavi district of North Karnataka since the days of the Adil Shahi of Bijapur. Generations of them had farmed the land, the rich red of the earth perhaps leaching its color into their blood. They were one of the few families in the district whose lands had not dissipated due to dissolute generations. If anything, they had only added more acreage to it.

Rama Bai had been married into the family at sixteen.  Since arriving as a young bride, dressed in the traditional nine- yard Paithani sari, from the neighboring village of Rayankot, she had known no other home. Seven decades had flown past. And now, though she was in her mid-eighties, even the mere idea of moving to Belagavi, the district headquarters had not crossed her strong mind. When her time came, she wanted her ashes to mingle with soil of her fields. She had decided thatred and gray, a novel combination which had worked very well for theKasuti embroidery of the women’s co-operative which she had established and led, should work for her too.

Ramakka, as she was popularly known in the village was a force to be reckoned with. She was the de facto matriarch of not just her clan, but of the entire village. Dressed in her cotton nine- yard sari, with a long- sleeved blouse, shod in Kolhapuri Chappals, her steel gray hair tied in a bun, she had only recently taken to carrying a wooden stick to help her on her peregrinations into her lands and beyond. The sharp brown eyes which glinted through the steel rimmed glasses, gave a glimpse into a deep, thoughtful and tenacious mind. A mind which feared nothing, from calling a spade a spade in family tiffs, settling the petty quarrels among her perpetually squabbling farmhands, to dealing with the rambunctious local politicians who were the ‘new elite’ and learning to adapt seamlessly to a huge house which gradually went from overflowing with people to a lonely emptiness. Hers was a life sans expectation.

Hers were also the heart and hands which helped in cash and in kind. Hers was the household which completely non critical, bore no one any grudge, where many a destitute loitering around the back-door could hope for a simple meal and a spare piece of cloth. In her younger days, she had been known to work shoulder to shoulder with the village women. Panchayats, headmen and government regimes had all come and gone like the falling rain. But Ramakka had weathered them all. Despite the twin scandals of one of her sons’ wedding a ‘Mem’, and one of her sons-in-law being a notorious drunk,thus being the constant butt of ridicule and speculation.

Her ‘Wada’ as the ancestral house was called had been modernized of late, complete with ensuite bathrooms, aircon and a modern kitchen, but her ‘majghar’ as the reception room was called still hosted the Ganapati for one and a half days in the month of Bhadrapad. Times had changed in the world beyond, but Ramakka remained what she had always been, a safe harbor for human ships sailing in the storm- tossed seas of life, a living memory of a gentler era, a person who still lived by ‘the old code’.

PART THREE

Tamipushed back the blue fringe of hair from her eyes before settling her sunglasses on them. Boy, was she dying for a smoke! Blast these Indian airports, which changed the luggage carousels at the drop of a hat. She had just managed to leg it to Belt Ten from Belt Two at the other end of the arrival hall, and could feel the rivulets of sweat trickling down her neck to her back. The thin vest top was already clinging to her lithe form. She sensed, rather than saw people leering, something she was used to.

Five feet six inches of litheness, choppy deep auburn hair with a bright blue fringe, startlingly vibrant green eyes, milky skin with a dusting of freckles on the high cheek bones, dressed in a cream vest and teeny belted shorts, a denim jacket hanging carelessly off one shoulder, she tried to fight her way through the throng clustered around the carousel which had jerked to life and was disgorging bags with irregular clangs. With a single disgusted backward glance, she brought down the three- inch heel of her black knee -high boot on the foot attached to the same torso, whose large hammy hand had been trying to land on her shoulder or perhaps further down, causing a muffled yelp as the would-be molester staggered away as quickly as possible, giving her a convenient spot next to the carousel.

Smiling grimly, she started to scan the bags. She needed her green suitcase. The basic outline of her paper and the approval letter for a case study in the Indian rural community of Balewadi, which she had wrangled after interminable correspondence with the Indian Embassy in Germany, were tucked safely in her ruck sack.But the suitcase carried various other paraphernalia like her video recorder, translator and Dictaphone. The Gods must have been looking out for her,for her suitcase arrived in record time.

Heading out of the terminal, the muggy heat of the Mumbai night hit her like a physical force. Eyes scanning the chauffeurs clustering around the barriers, she lit her cigarette and inhaled deeply, allowing the smoke to pervade her lungs. With a wry twist to her mouth, she knew that she needed the smoke to keep her going in the humid stench of sweat which was making her gag. That was when she spotted him, a mouse of a man, bearing a tattered piece of cardboard with GotamiImnadar scrawled on it in black marker pen.

Tami gave an inward cheer at being vindicated. Talking to Dad about her aunt Mandakini’s mean mindedness had been like talking to a brick wall. Her aunt’s snide remarks about her dressing sense, her manners and her morals had almost made her flee home when shehad visited Hamburg three years ago, amid much fan-fare. She had been the only one of Dad’s family who had come to visit them. Well, thought Tami sardonically, if the rest of the clan were anything like her self- righteous aunt, they were better off staying in India. “Just look at the guy who has come to pick me up!”, she thought. “Looks like he needs help with the suitcase”.

What she did not know was that her aunt had sent her most trusted chauffeur to pick her niece up. She would have come herself, but having fallen in the bathroom a couple of days ago, she had suffered a severe sprain to her ankle and had been advised to rest the limb for at least ten days. Mandakini was a widow, and her twin daughters who were married, lived in Hyderabad and Bangalore. She was devoted to Raghav and wished that she had been more open minded when she visited Hamburg. But, being a conservative person, she was afraid that she had come across as a crochety, judgmental crone to her niece. She regretted looking at the girl, who, to all intents and purposes was German, through an Indian lens and a myopic one at that, and wanted to make amends.

As Manohar drove off smoothly with Tami safely in the back-seat after he had wrestled her giant bag into the boot with surprising ease, Tami leaned back and allowed herself to drift with the smoke rings from her cigarette. It had all been because of a bad grade in a single subject, Human Rights and Gender Studies,that had been her undoing and made her traipse all the way to India. Oh yes, her roots were half-Indian, but she could no longer relate to them. All that remained were half forgotten memories of childhood visits, and the weekly phone calls to her grand-mother which Dad had made her participate in until she left home for university. She had never really felt a sense of belonging or familiarity, though. While Dad’s tales of growing up in the village had initially carried a certain charm, they later seemed provincial, prejudiced and suffocating. Brought up in the now described as ‘woke’ environment, Tami had been gradually distancing herself from the Indian part of her legacy. Her shortened name was proof enough.

She had initially wanted to complete her graduate paper in one of the Scandi countries, Denmark being her first choice. But a bit too much of horsing around, with the pandemic following swiftly on its heels had put paid to her plans. Professor Hahn had none of the customary twinkle in her eyes when she addressed her brilliant but falling-behind-the-times student, with an alien sternness. Her paper HAD to be unusual and only then would she be allowed to keep her place in the current program. The unsaid ‘or else’ had a sinister undertone. It would mean dropping out of the master’s program indefinitely until another place became available. “So not an option”, thought Tami grimly. Dad would never say “I told you so”, he was much too gentlemanly and too fond of her for that, but she would fall short of her own expectations. And that mattered a lot. And thus, this trip.

What better place than India to study gender and social differences with its deeply entrenched caste system and rampant inequality? And given the current regime with its strange notions of nationality based on an ancient religion of all things, this paper would be a breeze. She knew she would return triumphant in a couple of months, with all the necessary images of inequality which kept the aspirational East in its place and championed the cause of freedom so beloved by the West, which was still hung over on colonialism.And then, Professor Hahn would send a recommendation to Cambridge. That was where she had wanted to be her entire life. Well, she would write the best paper she could on the murky underbelly of an aspirational society. What better setting than a village where her mother had been laughed at and called names for wearing pants?

As the car drove up to the surprisingly beautiful and lush environs of her aunt’s gated community, Tami decided to stub out the half-smoked cigarette which she had lit only minutes before. She hated groveling, but as of now, discretion was definitely the better part of valor. Her aunt was the only person whom she felt she knew vaguely. Her grand-mother was a hazy memory at worst and a disembodied voice at best. She needed someone who could show her the ropes as she tried to complete her paper in record time. She had no intention of staying in this god-forsaken country, especially in the back of beyond for even a single minute more than absolutely necessary.

As she travelled up in the lift which led to her aunt’s penthouse, she felt a little shiver of some unknown emotion. Too many gaps, generational, behavioral and cultural, separated her and her foreign upbringing from half her roots.

PART FOUR

Ramakka half- heartedly supervised the women who were soaking the rose petals in cold water. Normally, she would have picked random samples of flowers from the heaps scattered around, peered beadily at the sorted roses to make sure that no pests lurked anywhere and tested the temperature of the large vats of water in which the flowers were to be soaked. Ever since her perfumery had been granted the ‘Inamdar Attar’ trademark, she had gone great lengths to ensure that the perfumes of her making were always of the highest possible standards.

Before the advent of the pandemic, she had been toying with the idea of patenting her perfume-making and packaging process with Raghav’s help. He was a great one for innovations and would have ensured that her special techniques and the secret ingredient which she added to the vats before distillation were recognized far and wide. Well, if that was not to be, she would be satisfied with her trademark status. It was not of any particular importance to her, but helped the women whom she employed, as the ‘branded’ perfume fetched more revenue and made their lives that much easier. It meant the higher education of a child for one, a much -needed surgery on a husband for a second, and a way to repair the sagging house for yet some-one else.

But today, everyone could sense the tension in the atmosphere. A few of the women wondered about it. They had heard that GautamiAkka, the daughter of Raghav Anna and the ‘Mem’was coming to stay for a few weeks. Surely, it was a time to rejoice? Ramakka should have been in the kitchen, preparing her famous ‘holgi’ or ‘puran-poli’ (flat bread with a delectable Bengal-gram and jaggery stuffing) instead of pottering nervously among them. They sensed that their beloved matriarch was worried about something, but knew better than to ask.Ramakka might have been beloved by all, but she knew how to set boundaries, which seemingly non-existent to a novice at first glance were only too apparent to those who had worked with her for years.They decided to bide their time until the much- awaited visitor arrived.

Tami sat hunched in the front seat of the Nexon. The mid-morning flight from Mumbai had been brief and pleasant, but things had been going steadily downhill, ever since she landed at Sambra Airport, to be met by her Uncle Anand. If she thought her Aunt Mandakini to be a typical orthodox, provincial Indian, Uncle Anand took it to a whole different level. Clad in a loose Kurta and Pajama, he sported what looked like three horizontal lines of white ash on his forehead. Around his neck, hung several necklaces, made of something resembling shriveled brown seeds,as well as a long length of yarn, folded several times on itself. Hairy toes peeped out of thick brown sandals. To make up for his balding head, he sported a bushy mustache and a thick beard, both sprinkled liberally with gray. He gave off hostile vibes like other people did after-shave.

Grunting in response to her wary greeting, he led her to the parking lot and gestured her towards the car. As they slid out smoothly,Tami peered around her, partly in surprise and partly in disdain. Hitting a spot of bad traffic at the exit leading to the highway brought about what seemed like a fluent stream of cursing from her dour uncle. For once, the normally flippant and irreverent Tami was at a loss for words. Dad had certainly not been exaggerating when he had described his brother as ‘different’.

She had dressed rather conservatively today, a half -sleeved linen shirt in pale green, loose black linen pants and loafers. The blue fringe was the only reminder of the hip young thing who had arrived in Mumbai yesterday. Perhaps it was because she was meeting her grand-mother after a long time, perhaps because she had to win the co-operation of these people, or perhaps because she did not want to hurt her father’s still-Indian sensibilities.

Her good resolutions were severely put to the test during the drive to her grand-mother’s home. Her uncle offered nothing by way of conversation and her attempts had been rebuffed either by a frown, or the now familiar grunting. She sighed and closed her eyes. Two could play at this game, she decided. If her uncle could go without conversation for a couple of hours, she could easily go a couple of weeks. She could make him her first case study in Indian Misogyny. Thanking God that she wouldn’t have to suffer his company for long, she leant her long frame back in the seat and gave in to black thoughts.

Why did these people have to be so judgmental when it came to dress, habits and behavior?  What freedom existed in society if everyone was expected to follow strict norms? What would her grandmother have to say about her? Would she freak out if she ever heard of Michael with whom she had been in an on-off relationship since the last three years? And most importantly, how on earth was she going to smoke or down the occasional bottle of beer which kept her going on a hot summer evening? These few weeks at her grandmothers were going to test her resilience more than any of her beloved endurance hikes in the Alps ever had.

She opened her eyes with a start to the sound of tires screeching over gravel and the sudden slamming of brakes. They had drawn up in front of a two- story building with a small front garden comprising of a few rose and holy basil bushes, with a swing in a corner. Three stone steps led up to a heavy wooden door studded with menacing looking spikes. Built entirely of grayish-black stone, the front had tiny slits of windows. A balcony ran around the entire upper story,roofed with red tiles. Two tall May-flower trees stood like sentinels at either end.

But Tami’s attention was riveted on the small, squat figure clad in a traditional sari, who stood on the top step,her face a mixture of emotions: love, hope, joy and a bit of wariness. She had finally arrived. Where? She wondered cynically. Not home, definitely. But at least where she traced half of her ancestry to.

PART FIVE

Tami walked sullenly along the narrow path which led into the fields lying beyond the stream. A crude stone bridge was built across the thin trickle of muddy brown water which navigated the sandbanks with difficulty. She could sympathize, she thought, as she gazed at the sluggish rivulet moodily. Her struggles to get ahead seemed reflected by the water. A lot of effort, but not much headway.

Chucking a pebble into the rivulet, she reflected on the week ‘that hadn’t been’, to her liking at all. With almost no progress to show on her paper, she wondered whether her decision had been wrong after all. Her first and most important limitation, had of course been language. If her heavily accented English did not do much for her cause, the smattering of Marathi which she picked up from Dad and which she had desperately tried to polish, did even less. It was difficult to communicate with her grand-mother, let alone the other women.

‘Aaji’ as the old lady had insisted, she be called, could thankfully speak in English. It was the type of prim and proper English that was probably spoken in Victorian England, but that was how Ramakka had been taught by her Anglo-Indian governess, making her an object of curiosity inRayankot, the village where she was born. Ramakka’s progressive uncle, who had been a revolutionary of sorts had made sure that his niece was as well- educated as his sons, at least until she finished her ‘matriculation’, before Ramakka’smother put her foot down and insisted on matrimony. And thus, Ramakka was proficient in reading and writing English, if a tad old-fashioned and rusty while speaking it.

Aaji had been only too happy to set up interviews with the women who worked with her in her small cottage industry of producing perfume or ‘attar’ from roses. She had even explained the complexities of the ‘village co-operative’ that she had formed, which helped the women supplement the otherwise meagre incomes which their families earned. Tami had been given chapter and verse on the finer nuances of ‘attar’ making and even been introduced to the art of ‘kasuti’, the famous embroidery of North Karnataka, which was another of her grandmother’s pet projects. This art fascinated Tami, the vibrant colors, the intricate designs and the dexterity of the women as their needles flashed in and out. It was more than art: it was a sort of meditation.

It was not the apparent lack of communication nor the cultural and generational gaps, thought Tami to herself. It was the element of surprise which had taken her unawares. She had expected a village of docile women, working quietly in the fields or on her grandmother’s lands, subservient to the men, victimized to a large extent. She had frankly expected to find a case of domestic violence here, some dowry harassment there, or a woman abandoned by a philandering husband at the very least, within the first few hours of her arrival.

What she had not expected was a thriving community in which the women ruled the roost and looked up to a matriarch, Ramakka. For the past few days, Tami had seen them walk in confidently in the morning, chattering about everything under the sun, clad in clothing which could be described as eclectic at best, from nine-yard sarees to salwar -kurtas and jeans! During the afternoon lunch breaks, the animated conversations became truly informative and entertaining, ranging from the popular movie of the week, coaching classes for children, the benefits of the new saving schemes introduced for the girl child, politics, and the best way to thwack a man backonto the teetotaler wagonif he showed any signs of falling off.

 The village had a male headman, a ‘Sarpanch’ as he was called, but ironically, he was often to be found sitting abjectly in Ramakka’s verandah, seeking advice for some issues in the village, wandering cattle, petty quarrels over the use of the water from the tank and the like. Tami had been taken aback by the sheer respect her grandmother commanded. A niggling doubt whether the status of women in rural India was really as unequal as was touted in the West began to gnaw at the back of her mind.When she had arrived, she was sure that she would quickly write on the rampant discrepancies existing in rural Indian communities, especially based on gender and caste. But now, she could no longer trust herself to do it. Professor Hahn had hinted that anything which highlighted human right infringement in the Indian setup would be lauded and a spot for a doctoral thesis at Cambridge would be hers for the taking.

What was it then which stood between her and ambition? Tami had tried for long to deny the unexpected kinship she strangely felt with the village in general and her grandmother in particular, which until now had prevented her from fudging any data or falsifying information. She also realized that Aaji held such sway over the hearts of her people, that she,Tami, would have been summarily chased from the village by the disgruntled villagers should they get even a whiff of her intentions to show their matriarch or her beloved village in bad light. AuntMandakini had warned her as much. Ergo, her irritability.

Perhaps, she needed to approach the problem from another angle. There was sure to be a discrepancy in the wages that the men and women were paid. This had been a norm since the Industrial Revolution and even women in the West had begun breaking the glass ceiling only recently. Surely, she could dig out some data there? Oh, and she had completely forgotten the caste issue, which would definitely surface in a small rural community. She would be sure to find a lower caste family who had had to settle at the fringes of the village and was perhaps ostracized by the upper castes. She could write about this and calm her disquiet. Eating her cake and having it too! Feeling more cheerful at this prospect, she walked on towards the sea of waving green fronds of millets which were the main crop growing in her grandmother’s lands.

She stopped short as she saw her grandmother standing still amid the waving crops. Was it her imagination or did she appear slightly stooped and more wizened than just a few days ago?  As Tami watched, she was shocked to see Ramakka’s shoulders heaving in what seemed unmistakably like sobs. She felt a creeping sense of shame for spying on what was probably a private moment for her grandmother and for what she was supposed to do. For a moment, she felt torn between wanting to rush forward and put a comforting arm around the shaking shoulders and staying quite still where she was, half-hidden in the greenery.

Almost as if sensing her presence, Ramakka squared her shoulders, turned imperiously and beckoned her forward. She pointed into the distance with her walking stick, “See all that land, right up to the small hill beyond? Well, it’s ours. Yours too, since you are a part of Raghav who is a part of all this, whether he likes it or not”. Tami nodded. Perhaps it was because she had just seen Ramakka at her most vulnerable, just a few moments ago that she added, “Dad misses you more than he cares to acknowledge. But you must understand, his work in physics is his life. He tries to bridge both his worlds, but it is not always easy. Mom and I don’t really understand your….I mean these ways, we are not used to it. It is not that we don’t mean to visit or keep in touch, but it is difficult. Dealing with a group of people who look at us as ‘different’, make us feel different.”

Ramakka listened without interruption. “Raghav probably felt like this too, you know,” she said quietly, making the blood rush to Tami’s cheeks. She suddenly realized that she had never asked Dad about whether he had felt out of place when he first arrived in Germany, or still did. She had just assumed that he had been happy to escape the third world, and had taken to a better country, like a fish to water. She remembered the wistfulness in his voice when he told her about his childhood and the hopeful look in his eyes whenever she spoke to her grandmother in her broken Marathi. She remembered the times when he sat in his study in the dark, listening to Indian folk songs and the way his eyes gleamed when they dined with Indian friends.

Ramakka reached up and patted the fair cheek tentatively, with her soft, wizened hand. Her brash, devil-may-care granddaughter had inherited a part of her sensitive Raghav, after all. “Allhumans under the skin, want the same thing, acceptance and cherishing,”she thought to herself. “We all have to follow our paths. Follow them sincerely, and we will definitely get to where we intend to go. And if you do meet a way-farer trudging along, make sure to lighten his load without any expectations,if you can. It is what I have always tried to do. It keeps you happy”, she said. As they walked down the path together, Tami felt a rise in her spirits after ages. Had they both begun to build bridges? She was amazed at the sudden feeling of kinship she felt with this woman who had been all but a stranger until a few days ago. She toyed with the idea of disclosing her real agenda of unearthing inequality and what she was supposed to say in her paper to her grandmother.

Deciding against it at the moment, she resolved to enjoy this newfound bond for another few days before disclosing the truth, which her grandmother was sure to find unpalatable. Had the slower pace and the simple life begun to affect her too? She did not feel the need to gulp down her daily dose of cigarettes anymore, and only smoked one on occasion. And as for guzzling beer, the large pot of purplish pink ‘sol-kadhi’ (a cooler of kokum fruit and coconut milk spiced up with zingy green chilis and a garlic pod) seemed like a much better idea. ‘Sol Kadhi’, indeed!  Well, the name was appropriate for it seemed to have made inroads into her soul.

As the two of them made their way home in companionable silence, Tami’s heart sank at the familiar sight of the white Nexon parked near the house. Uncle Anand was back.

PART SIX

Tami’s eyes popped open all by themselves. A glance at her cell-phone showed that it was only five thirty in the morning. Of late, she had been waking up earlier and earlier. When in India, do as the Indians do, she thought wryly. Back home, mid-March meant just a slight lessening in the chill winds blowing off the North Sea. As for waking up this early and throwing off the bed-clothes? Forget it! She would have been huddled safely under the heavy down comforter before hitting the snooze button a dozen times. She was amazed at how quickly this place had started to feel like home. The food, the people, the colors, how in the world had they wormed their way into her heart? It was as if her blood answered the call of its own, of the soil. Or was she as fickle as water? Ready to change course at the slightest obstruction?

Jumping out of bed which was curtained by a gossamer light mosquito curtain, another quaint addition which she loved, she walked to the tall narrow window and flung open the rest of the heavy wooden shutter before leaning out over the carved balustrade. She loved the extensive use of wood in this old house. It reminded her of the cozy cottage in the Alps where she had spent quite a few summer holidays with her parents.

A couple of strident voices cut across the morning calm, instantly shattering the tranquility. Uncle Anand again! She was vexed. The man was like a charging bull, strewing mayhem all around, wherever he happened to be. Aaji came into view, back ramrod straight, gesturing angrily with her walking stick. She seemed to be giving her son a piece of her strong mind and he was in no mood to back off. For the hundredth time, Tami wished she had paid more attention to Dad’s Marathi lessons. This was uncle Anand’s fourth visit since her arrival, and the most acrimonious yet.

Tami wished that her grandmother would confide in her. But she was not naïve. A rift of many years could not be healed in a few days. She really could not expect her grandmother to tell her everything, when she herself had been the true Teuton, off-putting and taciturn initially. Aajiwas as proud as they come, and as independent as a cat. Tami instinctively knew that she would not tell her the cause of the constant altercations, for she recognized the intensely private nature of her grandmother’s thoughts. They were a reflection of her own. She had observed a pattern with Uncle Anand, though. He generally arrived in the evening, went into a huddle with Aaji with some account books in the study after dinner, slept soundly till dawn and left after a lot of acrimony the following morning, having partaken of a huge breakfast.

Dad had told her that he lived in Belagavi, the district headquarters, with his wife who was the principal of a local school. His only child, a son, was a major in the Indian Army and was currently posted in Guwahati, a city in the north-eastern state of Assam. He managed the sales and marketing of all ofAaji’s agricultural initiatives and had made a tidy profit over the years. If the pictures in the drawing room were to be believed, his home was a mansion, with gleaming marble, floor- to-ceiling windows and an infinity pool which could have graced the rooftop of any five- star hotel. Why was he in a perpetual snit, though? Tami sighed. It was another of those unfathomable family mysteries.

Not that she had much time for all this, because it wasslowly and surely running out for her. Another couple of weeks and if her paper was not submitted, it would meanquitting the university. It was time to come clean to her grandmother, and if her theme was impossible here, it was time to up sticks and move on. There had been a vague email from Cambridge and she was still trying to fathom whether it was an offer or not. But she knew that this was certainly the end of a road. Even such vague offers may not be in the offing if she did not show willing and completed the paper exactly as they wanted it.

Perhaps she would never be able to establish the deep rapport she would have liked with Aaji, but her career was paramount. As she wandered aimlessly around the room, staring at the photos dotting the walls with unseeing eyes, her hand straying into her pocket for a cigarette to calm her frayed nerves, she was brought up short by a hand on her shoulder. Aajiagain! For a woman with such a commanding presence, the dear lady definitely had a way of creeping up and catching people unawares. It was time for breakfast.

The first thing mused Tami, as she took her seat, which had struck her about her grandmother was that everything about her was real, really, really real, without even a smidgen of artifice. The way she walked, talked, worked, dressed, even her admonishments were genuine and without guile or ulterior motive. She was a hard taskmaster, ruled everything with an iron fist and could be maddeningly pig-headed and dominant. But what you saw, was what you got. It was a welcome change for Tami, who dwelt mostly in a world of smoke and mirrors. Ever since she had moved to the University of Berlin, her life had changed beyond recognition. The constant exposure to overwhelming ambition, the unrelenting pace, the false facades everywhere and the need to get ahead at any cost, had begun to make a cynic of her. While meeting her grandmother had seemed like the last nail in the coffin of her woes at first, Aaji’s surprisingly liberal attitude and the way she had accepted her unquestioningly made Tami question the validity of thinking her judgmental, when she, Tami had been viewing everything with a prejudiced eye, conveniently covered up by the excuse of ‘a clash of cultures’.

Uncle Anand grumbled non-stop throughout what Tami thought was a rather trying meal and left soon after. Tami decided to go for one of her long walks to clear her head and decide whether today was the day to come clean to her grandmother.

PART SEVEN

Ramakka sat in her study, engrossed in her pile of mail. It was the usual stuff, things related to the perfumery, orders for the attar, seed and fertilizer catalogues, swatches of fabric for the Kasuti embroidery. One envelope however, stood out. It bore British stamps, was marked ‘Urgent’ and addressed to her. Who on earth could be writing to her from Great Britain of all places? she wondered as she deftly slit open the envelope with her ivory letter opener. She had swiftly scanned half of it, before realizing that the it was merely misaddressed and not meant for her after all. Hastily, she put it back, feeling guilty about getting a gist of the contents. She would give it to Tami as soon as she returned from her jaunt.

She glanced at the large framed photograph of her uncle on the study table. What would he feel if he knew that the freedom which had been his mission in life, and which he thought the country had won was being whittled away little by little? A wry smile played on her lips. Back in her youth, the struggle was clearly divided into white and black, literally. But now, though the players remained the same, the opponents had become experts at disambiguation. They now turned the children of India against their own. Well, this one, was more of a moral struggle, in which she could not participate. Her granddaughter would have to decide on her own.

Tami returned to the remarkable sight of a large SUV sporting a large red beacon on its roof, an Indian flag fluttering on the bonnet and official looking number-plates,as well as a jeep marked ‘Police’ parked in front of the house,with what looked like a couple of policemen on duty outside. What on earth was going on? Who was Aaji entertaining now? She crept in as quietly as possible, meaning to quickly check if all was well, before making herself scarce. She had finally succeeded in laying her devils to rest. Her ambition had triumphed and she decided to emphasize the woes of thefew disgruntled workers who claimed to get less wages, whom she had serendipitously managed to unearth, out of Aaji’s large workforce, that very morning.

Well, she had the basis for her paper. All that remained was to get the interviews and videos and write it up. She still felt torn, but strangely calm as well. Perhaps, she had gotten too emotionally involved in her roots. She had to grow, reach for the sky and if it meant transplanting herself and adapting to a new soil, so be it. This sojourn in India would remain what it was supposed to be, a happy memory of ‘living differently’. She really could not expect her grandmother, sixty-five years older than her, to become her best friend and understand her life.

The quiet murmuring from the drawing room suddenly escalated into loud voices, making her shudder. This, she reminded herself was the reason she needed to go back home. This kind of temperamental see-saw and in-your-face loudness on a daily basis, was too alien for her. Drawn to the fracas despite herself, she surreptitiously peeped in, to see a strange sight. A dark well-dressed woman, clutching her grandmother’s feet in a clear gesture of impassioned entreaty, while her grandmother attempted to soothe her and free herself at the same time. Alerted by her presence, the woman abruptly got to her feet.

Tami was astonished when she addressed her, “You must be Raghav’s daughter. All grown-up, I see. I am ShevantaDomban, the divisional commissioner of Belagavi division. The state government is launching a new training school for weavers at the taluka headquarters. We are all of the opinion that it will be a great privilege to have Ramakka inaugurate it. Can you manage to convince her? I have been trying for the past half an hour, but no amount of entreaty has worked so far. If you pull it off, we will be eternally grateful!” Tami stared in open-mouthed astonishment as the woman, who was clearly a powerful bureaucrat, touched her grandmother’s feet again before departing in a flurry of much saluting and bowing and scraping on the part of the policemen stationed outside the door.

The more she lived with her grandmother, the less she seemed to know her thought Tami. Who was her grandmother exactly? A reformist? A do-gooder? A humanitarian? Or an ordinary human, unnecessarily catapulted to a greatness which she did not deserve? Her thoughts were plagued by the image of the three laborers who had accosted her that morning, claiming that they had not been paid for the past two weeks because they belonged to lower castes. Should she ask her grandmother about them? Looking around, she saw that her grandmother had glided out of the room on silent feet, leaving her feeling more alone than before.

Ramakka had summoned Tami to her study. The girl had not set foot into this room ever since she had arrived. Not that Ramakka had expressly forbidden her to enter, but somehow, the occasion had never arisen. Ramakka had been quite preoccupied, first with the problem with a few of her laborers, then with Tami’s advent and then the situation with Anand, and Tami had never voluntarily sought to meet her there. All their interactions had been in the gardens and fields, in the kitchen and the perfumery, and in the drawing rooms and bedrooms. Never the study, which was still a private sanctuary for Ramakka.

When Tami entered, Ramakka noted that the sullen look which had gradually been fading was now back in Tami’s eyes. Heaving an inward sigh, she wondered what had gone wrong. She had been overjoyed with the gradual development of what seemed a genuine bond between her and this unknown, but well-loved granddaughter of hers. If there was a thing which Ramakka prided herself on, it was the bond she shared with her grandchildren, if not all her children. Tami had been the only one missing from the fold and when she had joined in, Ramakka had felt the satisfaction of a life well-lived.

But something had soured that morning. The arrival of the letter had made Ramakka muse about the futility of expecting Tami to accepther enough to confide in her. Wordlessly, she reached into her drawer and handed her the letter. “I opened it because it was wrongly addressed to me. My apologies”, if her formal tone surprised Tami, she did not let it show. It was the coveted letter from Cambridge, mentioning a place for a doctorate.So, Professor Hahn had sent the recommendation after all. But the condition which Professor Hahn had only mentioned, was put forth in rigid black-and-white. Nothing less than a paper on serious human rights infringement in India would suffice. It was signed by Dr. Ashok Sen, renowned the world over for championing the cause of the downtrodden in general, but those in India in particular. He was a much- touted professor of ‘Sociology in the Indian Culture’ and had written several papers on human rights infringement in India, many of which were controversial at best and suspect at worst.

Tami initially wilted under her grandmother’s steady unrelenting gaze. Aaji was no fool, and she must have understood why Tami had arrived here in the first place. Did she feel an overwhelming sense of betrayal? Or had she known from the start that Tami would never fully belong? That she must have had a sort of hidden agenda of her own? But really did it matter that much? Several Indians had done much worse. But if the true nature of Tami’s paper became public, what would happen to the Ramakka’s good name and the position she had built over all these years? As a social worker, as a person dedicated to the upliftment of her community, and as a patriotic Indian?

PART EIGHT

Tami stared back at her grandmother, unrepentantly. She knew what she had to do. Her grandmother could pose as much as she liked, but today Tami had discovered her feet of clay. Ramakka sighed. She had tried her best to keep Tami out of the politics which was now an integral part of any social upliftment program which was implemented in the village.

“If you want a position in Cambridge, you will have to meet their demands. You might wonder how I know so much about this, but I try to keep up with the latest in the field of education. Ever since Raghav went abroad, I have tried to know the latest and best fields to study and the best colleges too. Today, I am a successful businesswoman and agriculturist and able to try and help those who are less privileged because of my uncle’s vision.  If he would not have given me an education, I might have sold out after your grandfather’s passing and would have been just another senior citizen, whiling away her time, till time itself claimed her.”

“Do what you think is the best for your career. Write your paper. While I have tried to better the lot of my village, it may not be the case elsewhere. But I wish you would take into account that ours is a large, unwieldy nation which was in tatters for several years even after independence. That we have fought frank and proxy wars. That we are trying to correct the wrongs which exist in our society and that it is not an overnight process. I am sorry you feel like you don’t belong. I have tried to bridge the generation gap between you and me, but it is too wide for both of us, perhaps. Let this stay of yours remain a wonderful memory for the both of us. And, don’t feel guilty about choosing your path. I am glad we could knit at least a small gossamer thread of Kasuti between our hearts, if not more!” Ramakka stood up, indicating the conversation was over and swiftly left the room, leaving Tami more confused than ever.

Her wandering footsteps led her to the cooperative, where she knew the women would be at work with their Kasuti embroidery. The rhythm of their working and the repetitive action of the needle flashing in and out of the thread would probably soothe her. The finished design with its subtly elegant flamboyance, such a contrast! never ceased to amaze her.

When she went in however, she immediatelyfelt the lack of the usual camaraderie on the part of the women. Normally, they would try to crowd around, show her their designs and generally bask in ‘Akka’s’ approval. Today, they were dour and disapproving. Her arrival was met with nudges, surreptitious glances and frowns. With no one ready to address her, Tami wondered if they had somehow picked up on what she planned to write about their village, but quickly banished the thought. How could they know? Unless…Aaji had told them? Was she such an underhand person? Tami was surprised at the sudden swell of hurt within her.

As she turned to leave, she saw another figure lurking by the door.The bureaucrat was back again! Hadn’t she left ages ago? Why was she back? She was even more flummoxed when the lady addressed her, “Yes, I am back. Because, these women wanted to meet me. I am a daughter of this village too. Apparently, a few men abetted by a few unsavory elements have been trying to create trouble for the cooperative and for Ramakka. Threatening her with dire consequences if they are not paid more wages than their wives. I think these women saw them talking to you this morning. Kalappa, Doddanna and Kadir, am I right?”

Tami nodded. Shevanta continued, “Their wives Gauramma, Dakshayani and Sakina,” she paused to point out three women in the crowd, “believe that they are stirring up trouble. They accosted you about their pay, didn’t they?” without waiting for Tami’s reply, she barged on, “They are infamous for their notorious ways, drinking,womanizing and indulging in petty crime. That is why, Ramakka refuses to hand over their wages to them and gives them to their wives instead. Did you really think that she would discriminate on the basis of caste?”

Her harsh voice rang in Tami’s ears, but the woman was not done yet. “There is something else I have to tell you,”. Leading Tami outside, she continued, “My mother was a ‘Tamasgir’, a dancer of ill-repute in travelling shows, a glorified prostitute, if you will. I never knew my father. My mother died in this village, when the show was performing here for about a fortnight, when I was ten. I would have had no other option but to follow in my mother’s footsteps, if not for Ramakka. She found out about me through one of her servants, who frequented the show. I don’t know how she did it, but she brought me here, away from the hopeless life which I had resigned myself too. Her pretext was to hire me to work as a maid,but she enrolled me in and encouraged me to go to school.”

“When she realized that I was bright, she sent me to the high school at the taluka headquarters. I was in Anand’s class. Both of us appeared for the high school scholarship exam together. There was just the one spot for the whole taluka and I beat him by just one mark. But, because he was the son of a rich landowner, the headmaster thought of awarding it to him by fudging the marks and came to meet your grandparents. When Ramakka heard of what he wanted to do, she was livid. He tried to explain that I could apply under the backward caste category, but she would have none of it. I had won it fair and square and it was right fully mine, she said. Anand had to go without it.”

“Anand’s disappointment knew no bounds. He had boasted aboutwinning the scholarship much in advance. The ridicule he faced at school scarred him so much that he gradually lost interest in studying.  He never did as well as he could have. Having to settle with a mediocre degree from a mediocre college, he started to see this single episode as the beginning of his downfall. As it is, Raghav’s obvious brilliance meant that he was always second-best in his own family, in his own mind.” She smiled ruefully. “News travels quickly here. Nothing stays secret for long. I have heard that though he does all that he can for his mother, he still rakes up the lost scholarship on every visit and quarrels with her about it, even after all these years. You have probably witnessed it.”

She stepped forward and placed her hand on Tami’s shoulder. “I came to tell you all this, because you are clearly out of your depth. You have no experience in the politics of this village, making you an ideal pawn for certain disgruntled, unscrupulous people who want to get back at Ramakka through you, by swindling you for money with their sob-stories,or by provoking you into arguing with Ramakka on their behalf, causing unnecessary misunderstandings between you and her. It would push Ramakka deeper into her personal pool of loneliness, where she has lived for so many years now. And I don’t want that, because this is the first time in a long time, after Raghav’s departure, that I have seen her so happy, as if a void deep within her is being gradually filled”.

“A woman who can do so much for an unknown girl of doubtful lineage, who can stand the censure of society and her own family in her fight for justice cannot be the flagbearer of inequality and discrimination, can she?” A swift smile, and she left as quickly as she had come. Staring after her, Tami’s fickle, wavering mind finally knew what it had to do.

EPILOGUE

The good employees of Parfumerie Fragonard in Grasse, France were too polite to stare, but the pretty young twenty something in the chic gray shirt with the unusual red thread work, and the stately eighty something in Mon Dieu, was it a sari? were the most unusual visitors they had had in a long time. To his credit, the chief perfumer answered all their questions patiently. He was particularly taken by the old lady and the depth of her knowledge in the subject. Perhaps she distilled perfumes too?Their numerous questions satisfied at last, the duo stepped outside into the bracing autumn wind.

Rubbing her hands in unmistakable glee, Ramakka looked at Tami with a wicked glint in her eye, “Now that we have tackled the perfumery question, I wonder whether we should venture into the winery business too?”, she asked saucily, head cocked to one side. A wide grin lit up Tami’s face.

Later, as Tami gazed up at the star -lit sky from the little balcony of the hotel room which she shared with Aaji, she felt more content than she had felt in a long time. The decision of getting another degree in applied ecology and agriculture had been the best decision of her life. Life was too large and paradoxically too short to be hemmed in by narrow conventions and prejudices, she decided.

As she caressed the delicate kasuti embroidery of her tunic dress, she felt the weave grow strong under her finger-tips, weaving a bridge across generations and helping her straddle both her legacies. She felt a soft hand caressing her cheek in a now familiar gesture. As she met her Aaji’s eyes with a new understanding, she knew that they had both followed the road to each other’s hearts, the long road home….


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The Good Book For All Indians

‘A religion that doesn’t interfere with the secular order will soon discover that the secular order will not refrain from interfering with it’

Archbishop Fulton. J.Sheen

I am coming clean. I am not very aware of the finer nuances of cricket. Although I follow it as avidly as the next person, and prove my staunchly Indian credentials (especially if the match happens to be against Pakistan) by cheering loudly for the sixes, remaining glued to the screen for a nail-biting final over, or celebrating an Indian win wildly, mid-on, mid-off, long-on, long-off are all the same to me. The only bye I know is to wave somebody off. I digress today, because I have become a firm fan of Amit Mishra. I had no clue about his existence in the world of cricket until a couple of weeks ago, and would have continued in this blissful state of ignorance had it not been for a war between him and another more famous player, Irfan Pathan, whom I had surprisingly heard of often.

Barring the formidable Mr. Putin and Mr. Zelensky, most wars are now fought on relatively safer turfs like Twitter and WhatsApp (though with Elon Musk wading in, Twitter may soon be a far different battle ground from the La- La Land it is today). DO NOT be fooled into thinking that Twitter wars are anything as simple as a couple of birds disagreeing with each other with melodious chirps. An all- out claw- and-draw blood is how this war of words is fought, replete with attacks on the manners and morals of men. What is that you say? Quit beating about the bush and get to the point? Right!

Getting to the point, it was the result of one such Twitter War between M/s Mishra and Pathan that I became a fan of Mr. Mishra. Mr Pathan tweeted “My country, my beautiful country, has the potential to be the greatest country on earth. BUT…” He might have meant well, but the cryptic tweet so open to interpretation, meant that he was up to mischief. Mr. Pathan thought that he had bowled well and would be rewarded with a wicket. Imagine his chagrin when his well-pitched ball was lifted for a six by Mr Mishra who came back with an even more cryptic tweet of his own, “My country, my beautiful country has the potential to be the greatest country on earth…only if some people realize that our constitution is the first book to be followed”, leaving behind one miffed bowler who had no idea what hit him. Of course, when last heard, Mr. Pathan had displayed the preamble of the Indian Constitution on his Twitter account with a request that it be read and re-read. And that brings us to the ‘Good book for all Indians’, The Indian Constitution.

The Preamble to it is a harbinger of the great things which lie within. Adopted in 1949 and coming into effect in 1950, the original preamble resolved to constitute India into a sovereign, democratic republic. So far, so good. But then, along came Mrs. Indira Gandhi. Not satisfied with merely declaring a state of national emergency in 1975, she pushed through several amendments in our good book, taking it to the brink of being unrecognisable. In the forty-second amendment in 1976, the words ‘Secular’ and ‘Socialist’ were added to the preamble. This was later given the green signal by milords in black, the Supreme Court which ruled since the preamble was a part of the constitution, it was subject to amendments, pretty much in the way the constitution could be amended via Article 368.

Of course, this comprehensive amending of the Good Book of India was done a long time ago, but the Book is now apparently in danger of being swept into oblivion if any of the incendiary information which regularly does its rounds on media, both social and conventional is to be believed. Before the brouhaha of the secularism business began,was there no peace in India? I very much doubt that. Secularism as a concept is very apt and practical for the running of a country, seeking to keep religion away from national policy. India, with its plurality, home to myriad religions, each with different philosophies, practices and holy books, needs this for its progress. Then where does the hindrance arise you may ask. Haven’t we already given ourselves the frame work of laws needed for all-round progress?

The problem arises with the discrepancy in the theoretical teachings and practical applications of the concept. True secularism means an equality of all religions in the eyes of the law of the land, irrespective of whether one religion is followed by the majority and another by the minority. It is a rather strange precedent therefore to protect the minority religions (and then again only some and not all) to such an extent that injustice is rendered to the majority, simply because it is IN majority and may misuse its strength of numbers (the factual truth of this be damned). This, therefore smacks of malicious intent. Again, where true secularism is practiced, the law is the same for all religions, with the personal law of each either codified uniformly or rendered null and void before the law of the land, what can be termed as ‘Uniform Civil Code’. In the wake of the secularism wave, Article 44 of our Good Book which states that ‘the state shall endeavour to secure for the citizens a uniform civil code throughout the territory of India’ has been languishing on the back burner for so long that many Indian citizens have perhaps forgotten its very existence.

For the larger part, secularism has been used as a convenient cloak for appeasement, particularly of theminority religions.Since it is the duty of the ruling dispensation to safe guard the rights and interests of all its citizens, it naturally follows that there should never be the spurious ‘First Among Equals’. Did the greed for power loom so large that the majority of the population had to be ‘othered’ ironically on the basis of religion? The question is moot.

But the consequences were not pretty. Even children as young as one and two recognise favouritism when they see it and act up accordingly, turning into obnoxious bullies if they discover that they can get away with it. So, to not expect the same from the unnecessarily pampered adults, is either the height of naivete or stupidity. I have a third explanation, since our politicians maybe many things but are neither naïve nor stupid. It was the insatiable greed for power of the few taking precedent over the interests of the many. And the results are before us for all to see. Hostility and belligerence, especially when the miscreants, who had long believed themselves to not just be above the law, but BE the law when occasion demanded were brought to book. When they were forced to set aside whatever other books they followed and were made to toe the line of the Indian Good Book.

Whether it is the protests against the revocation of the special status of Jammu and Kashmir, the CAA and NRC, or the illegality of the Triple Talaq, the recent protests against the High Court decision about the wearing of the Hijab as part of the uniform in institutions or the Jahangirpuri riots in Delhi, one thing is certain. When a pampered and cosseted child is suddenly met with a firm ‘NO’, a tantrum is inevitable. And this is the precise situation today.That the ruling dispensation has suddenly changed from “minorities having first claim on resources” to “Secularism is India first. Justice to all appeasement to none”. And thus, the hue and cry because the heat is on. Not just that, the ‘Platinum Card’ of secularism is being rejected by the majority before you can say ‘ATM’!

That is actually the reason for Mr. Pathan’s ire. Which made him misjudge the length and bowl a no-ball (abject apologies if I am murdering cricket terminology). I think his advice deserves to be followed. But let us tweak it just a little. Let us read and re-read the ORIGINAL preamble of the constitution, the one and only Good Book for anyone who truly believes in India!

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Lifestyle Article

Between Magic And Mania

‘Once you sign on to be a mother, 24/7 is the only shift they offer’

Jodi Picoult.

If I dig deep enough into the precious memorabilia I have from my glory days of yore, (read childhood and the happy time when the offspring was a little bundle of preciousness, who, try as she might, could not move much) I am confident of unearthing two photographs. One was taken when I was about five or six, featuring my Great-grandmother, Granny, Mom and me. Our expressions varied greatly, Great-granny had a look of slight disbelief, Granny complacent, Mom happy enough, though her smile looked just the tiniest bit forced and I, blithe and carefree as they come, my mind already planning the next devilment.

Fast forward to two and a half decades later. A repeat of the same picture, but with a slight change in the players: Granny, Mom, me and the offspring (Great -Granny had since journeyed to the hereafter), the same expressions, although the offspring was too young to execute any of the devilments which she might have planned. It was then that I realized the mystery behind the expressions. The Marathi sayeth which roughly translates as ‘you do not get a glimpse of heaven unless you die first’ was true after all. Great-Granny looked disbelieving because she could actually wash her hands off her offspring and Granny was complacent about a well-raised offspring, who perhaps contrary to her expectations, accepted responsibility for a hundred things.

It was Mom’s slightly forced smile which was the most intriguing. It was probably because she had probably been gradually realizing that her 24/7 shift was not even going to change to a 12/6 one for the next decade and a half at least, that she, to quote Robert Frost had miles to go before even a peaceful afternoon nap was in sight. Well, by the time I realized and repented for all my little and not so little foibles, they had caught up with me and can be summarized by something interesting which I read just the other day, ‘My kid is turning out to be just like me. Well played Karma, well played.’

 Fast forwarding yet again, if you take a good look at me these days, my smile is not so much forced, as a downright grimace. I had solemnly vowed to never say ‘Yeh Aaj kal ke bacche!’, having heard this litany continuously while growing up, leaving me wondering whether I had grown hooves, horns, a forked tail or all of the above. But the famous James Bond movie sums it up rather well, ‘Never Say Never Again’. In a futile attempt to keep my vow, I make sure to never say the ‘Yeh Aaj’ etc etc aloud, but chant it in my mind, a never- ending mantra, which will perhaps lead me on the path to enlightenment. Now that the offspring is a full-fledged teen, it is par for the course for her to be on the offensive about a million things and more, and she does it with customary aplomb, leaving me to put up a rather feeble defense. I constantly glance over my shoulder hoping for reinforcements in the form of Mom perhaps? (the spouse not being of much use) But, no such luck. Mom is too busy grinning and pointing at her beloved grand-offspring with pride from the side-lines, and egging her on if anything! I am seriously considering getting a puppy, so that at least someone in the house is pleased to see me!

Having been a mom for more than a third of my life now, I have suddenly developed not just a bond, but a kindred spirit of deep sympathy for the rest of my ilk, especially those of my generation. Harried women, most of them teetering on the tightrope of holding on and letting go, ‘upgrading’ themselves at speed, to become the latest 6 or 7G versions of themselves, lest they become ‘slow’ in this era of virtual reality. In these times of cut-throat competition, it is hardly implausible that mothers without warning can morph from normal moms to ‘momsters’ in the blink of an eye. It is the fear of their children being left behind that drives them to be the ones with the best dressed, best fed, best behaved, topper kids who play three musical instruments, four varsity sports, have developed half a dozen apps and written at least two books by the time they are twelve and are fending off talent scouts from all eight of the Ivy League Institutes by the time they are fifteen. Anything less is considered a failure. Of course, there are the rest of us who think that there exists a very fine line between ‘Supermoms’ and sanity.

In the meantime, kids make merry. Each generation thinks that the successive ones are insufferable know-it-alls. This is especially true for most of us, for we spent our childhood in the pre-internet era, gained an insight into it at the beginning of our college/ working lives (mainly those lucky ones who are in I.T. The rest of us, me included, only heard about its existence) and gradually allowed it to transform how we looked at things only since a decade and a half. With the children submerged in the internet since early childhood, it seems the most natural thing to them to become self- proclaimed masters, navigating the tangled web with frightening ease and efficiency before mommy dearest can say ‘tarantula’ (the giant spider, I meant, not the latest version of some game or operating system).

I like to think that we are keeping pace with the changing times. Mr. Suraj Barjatya, with his penchant for playing happy families with a Magna Mater ruling the roost and ensuring that she is the last word on manners and morals which the rest of the clan obsequiously follows and whose children hang on to her every word like so many bats in a cave has been firmly relegated to the past, getting an outing only when we feel the need to be drenched in nostalgia. The rest of the time, we keep it real, ala` Sridevi, in her fabulous come back film, ‘English Vinglish’, where she deals with an impertinent offspring with flair, in her inimitable way. It is not as if the offspring are bad at all. It is just the impatience of youth, trying to prove itself, to make sure that it reaches the goals we set in the first place.

It is with these encouraging (God knows I need them twenty times a day) thoughts that I gird myself for some more skirmishes with the offspring which are sure to come my way unexpectedly. In the course of an ordinary day, it begins with the ideal time to wake up (with the sun according to me and the stars according to her), the menu for BLD(breakfast, lunch and dinner), the clothes, the nails, the hair, the books, the time wasted watching OTT (according to me of course!), the choice of music (mine wails and hers sounds like nails on a chalk board), midnight snacks and a million other things which all moms the world over would agree on. But, at the same time, I would not change a single thing. These little battles are the stuff of family legends.

There are tears and laughter and rule-making and breaking. Times when I am deemed judgmental, or other times when the rolling eyes describe me as simply ‘mental’. Times when I don’t know enough and times when I know too much. When I am too preachy and times when I don’t give enough advice like other well-meaning people. When I am not assertive at all, or so assertive that she has to remind me that it’s her life! And those memorable times when I can be counted on to embarrass her with either my misplaced sense of style (or lack thereof) or misplaced sense of humor. It is a constant rollercoaster ride which I wouldn’t miss for the world.

And of course, every time I seek some respite, to write this screed for example, she, by some strange form of extra sensory perception,knows that I am putting my feet up, leading me to discover a new law, The Offspring Law, as I call it. “The moment you find something interesting or important to do is the very moment when the offspring will need something, and yell for you. The more you ignore, the longer the duration, and higher the pitch and the frequency”. This is especially true in case of multiple offspring, where you are trained with great zeal in the many tasks which peace keeping forces are expected to do.

What brought on this piece on parenting you ask? Mother’s Day of course, though if truth be told, I would say that every day is Mother’s Day, at least as far as keeping the wheels of the daily grind tickinggoes.I would like to wish all mothers out there, for having been there and done that. Because being a mom is not easy. If it were, dads would do it too! So, irrespective of your style of parenting or the type of mom you are, a tiger, a dolphin, an elephant, a helicopter, or any other, take heart for you are doing better than your best and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise!

Sticky fingers, runny noses, fevered brows, scraped knees, forgotten homework and projects, exams by the dozen, sports, music and everything else in between, a mom’s world is never dull, long after the kids have flown the nest. Because they are the living memories which we make, little bits of ourselves, which we hope to leave behind for posterity. That is what motherhood is, the eternal walk between mania and magic.

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