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Where Regals Dare

Friendship is a wildly underrated medication

Anna Deavere Smith

Back in October 2022, thanks to the prodding of a good surgeon friend of mine, I had an epiphany like Munnabhai in ‘Lage Raho Munnabhai’. Luckily, I did not see visions of Bapu (a sure shot one way ticket to the mental health facility for which Thane is famous). Instead, I saw visions of myself sailing away into the sunset for three whole days, luckily unaccompanied by my prince or the little princess. Before you get any ideas, I was NOT going to look for new ones. It was to catch up with several someones even better: my friends from that happy time more than twenty years ago, when I actually had a waist, naturally black hair, and eyes which could see without any prosthetic aids. Always the one to leap before I looked, I allowed myself to be swept away on a rising tide of happiness and booked myself onto a ship which would reunite the class of 1994 and while apparently sailing us to Goa and back over a span of a few memorable days and nights would actually be a journey down a lane of memories which can only be wrought when you are undergraduates together. To tell the truth, I was a tad ashamed when friends pointed out that I was failing to participate when said cruise was a stone’s throw away where as others were flying in literally from all over the globe.

Now that I was signed up, I started trying to net “fresher catch” (read other friends). Finally, at a total of just over fifty, we were ready to cast off during the first weekend of the glad, mad New Year. Discovering that my slightly sadistic vein was still alive and well, I announced to the spouse and the offspring that they could slog while “I would be on a cruise having a good time” with much unwarranted glee. The first sign of signing on for much more than I had bargained for came in the form of a ‘dress code’ which would require much more than sixty shades of shopping. When the opinion poll on clothes which I was seeking started dragging for more than two weeks, I finally put a sock on it, and set out to shop, the recent Diwali debacle firmly banished to the dark depths of memory. By the time the clothes, the looks, the cosmetics, accessories, alterations, footwear, salon visits and the million other things which go into stepping on a boat with your buddies were sorted, I felt as drained as if I had personally built the ship from keel to mast. The spouse and the offspring who had watched ruefully from the side lines bid me a relieved good bye before collapsing thankfully on the sofa with a sigh of relief. It had been a difficult two weeks.

With a slight feeling of trepidation, I finally set out after obsessive planning on where to become ‘a lady who lunched’, worrying about whether the café I chose would be good enough, whether my friends would lose their way in the lanes of mercenary Mumbai, and most important of all whether they would recognize the matronly, middle- aged consultant as the svelte student of yore who had parted ways more than two decades ago. A hearty lunch later, I was laughing all the way to the dock for letting such dim-witted doubts to trickle in. It was an important lesson: some friends were for keeps and you could carry on as if you never left off in the first place.

Having thankfully seen that most of us were merrily ensconced in the ‘golden middle group’, the task of onerously hauling our humungous suitcases up a rather steep gangway seemed daunting to most, especially when some perilously teetered on heels three inches high, while taking a million selfies at the same time. I thought I saw a gleam in the eyes of our orthopedician friends, whether in anticipation of several pretty patients, or of tedious duty a la` residency remained to be seen, but I will go in favour of the former! During the short walk from shore to ship, one learnt the art of elegant selfie-taking on steep surfaces, but more on that later.

After being welcomed with larger- than- life enthusiasm by the staff, the smaller than anticipated cabins lent a whole new meaning to ‘close quarters’, but it was all part of the fun. It really did not faze any of the Mumbai residents, used as we were to everyday cheek- by-jowl living but denizens of more spacious habitats must have found it more in your face than bargained for. Luckily, my roomie and I shared a neat freak obsession and our cabin remained a model one at all times without any clothes bombs exploding anywhere. A larger- than -warranted hearted intensivist immediately took on ‘housekeeping’ the next day and greeted us at odd hours and even odder places clad in a snow-white lungi which was sure to turn funny colours like his shirt if he really did all the work expected of him. Despite us thanking him for his cooperation several times, he played his chosen role to the hilt, by smartly disappearing when called upon to clean up.

In hindsight (and I sure that our entire team of opthalmologists would agree), the cabin size was a great idea for it drove us all on deck so that we would watch Mumbai harbour crawl with vessels of all kinds in the backdrop of a hazy sunset. It was where I learnt that there was an art called ‘seventy shades of selfies’, of individuals, groups, groups of groups, selfies of other people taking selfies, selfies of groups taking selfies and various permutations and combinations which would make S. Ramanujan rethink the entire theory of probability. The ship finally sailed, not into the sunset, but into the darkness, Mumbai, a cluster of lights on the horizon. Some glad-rags and fancy footwear later, we were again on deck, to begin the fancy footwork (read dance) of which I was happy to be a bit of a fringe element in the beginning. But the tunes were too catchy, and the enthusiasm too much for the most recalcitrant and soon most of us shaking a leg with abandon. So far, so great. The selfie lesson learnt I did not think that I could be schooled in much more. Little did I realize that the real classes would begin early the next day, for when you relived your college days, could early lectures be far behind?

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PART TWO

The sun woke up the next day and wondered whether it should check itself into a hospital for a sharp attack of jaundice. The deck was a mass of various shades of yellow. Daffodil, ochre, chrome, lemon, mango and neon all fought for their rightful place under the gently reeling sun. Van Gogh and Wordsworth must have been peering down benevolently from above at a scene resembling ‘Starry Night’ and a host of golden daffodils, a classic case of ‘Ek pe Ek free’.  After mumbling ‘Shining in the rising sun like a pearl upon the ocean’ a few times under my breath, I immersed myself in the bright plans for the bright day. Today was indeed the big one, what with a photoshoot in the morning and a gala private party at night in which the good stuff including casks of mead and wine would flow freely.

Finally buttonholing myself into a blazer bought for precisely this occasion, I tip-tapped my way around the ship in heels which brought howls of protest from my feet, picking up pictures as I went. Both of our extremely able organizers were opthalmologists (all the better to keep a sharp eye on things, my dear) and hence able to spot little groups getting together at the distance of a hundred paces. By dint of cajoling, yelling and good old-fashioned threatening, the shriller of the two finally got us into a large group and another enterprising physician sweet-talked an amused co passenger into photographing us all from a higher level. The son of one of our class mates, did not need any cajoling and deciding that there had to be at least one adult in the group calmly took on the responsibility too.  In the meantime, the rest of us behaved like school children who have been abandoned to their own devices by tired teachers. We got into groups, bickered, pulled faces, pointed at each other in photographs and generally behaved in ways which would have had patients running for cover.

Deciding that our wilder shenanigans were better carried out in a place far from the gawking crowds, we retreated to the relative quiet of the aft deck where we were once again marshalled into place according to specialities by our beloved tyrannical ophthalmologist to walk the ramp. The anaesthetists fell asleep on the job, causing the surgeons to shudder and the orthopedics to obsess. The eye people grabbed eye-balls with an impromptu little dance at the sight of which the gynaecologists got carried away as usual to gyrate with abandon. The physicians all carried their hearts on their sleeves while the neuro guys tried their best to make sense of what was happening (and probably failed). The radiologists decided to send out an SOS on the ship’s radio, but no joy. The nuclear medicine guy went nuclear at all that went on. I looked about vainly for my brethren, those three headed experts of ears, noses and throats only to remember that they had all bailed out the day before, leaving me to hold the fort alone, feeling like Cerberus, the giant three headed dog who guarded the gates of Greek hell.

I also tried a few stupid things while stone-cold sober like climbing ladders in tippy-tappy heels (not advised), and trying to recall the past day’s lesson and filling my protesting phone with too many pictures than deemed healthy. An exhausting morning of cat-walking later, as we finally made our way to lunch, it was as if the years had fallen away to reveal the youth and abandon which lurked beneath the acquired trappings of sophistication which time had made us don over the years.

It was only at lunch and after that I realized exactly how much planning goes into the packing involved while setting out on a cruise. Everywhere I looked were pretty women whom I thought I recognized. Of course, I did. They were my friends. But where on earth did they find the time and patience to change into better and better costumes every two hours? Or was it every twenty minutes? I stared like a bumpkin at the display of skirts, pants, shirts, jeans, pantsuits, dresses in varying lengths and colours of the rainbow, and everything in between. Enough stuff to kit out Barney’s New York, Harrods, London and leave some over for good ol’ Desi Westside, Mumbai. Deciding that I had to learn to pick some brains regarding the finer nuances of packing, I made my way back to my cabin deciding to lie low from the one thousand and one photographs which seemed to be following me around like the ghost of the Arabian Nights.

Come evening and it was the time to party, with a capital P. The good staff of the cruise had earmarked a private space for our use (they had decided that we were better off hidden away before we gave our shipmates any ideas). A couple of crooners, bartenders and a competent DJ later, ‘Take the world and paint it red’ had taken on a whole new meaning. The dance floor heaved, the music throbbed and even the staid teetotalers had brought their favourite step to the floor. Waving arms, kicking heels, bobbing heads and clapping hands brought out the ‘josh’ like no other. Twirls, whirls and flying curls only spelt out what we had known all along: the best times are best spent with friends.

A wonderful live music program seemed a befitting way to end a day which had left us all saying “Yeh Dil Maange More”.

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PART THREE

When the ship finally docked in Goa, we still had miles to go before the thought of sleep even entered our rewired minds. By now, we considered ourselves experts on egging each other on into evil ways and several plans for the day were made and unmade, each more hilarious than the last. Just as I rubbed at my sore ankles finally glad that ‘well-heeled day’ was safely behind me, I realized that the ethnic photo shoot was still on the agenda. After all the literal and figurative pains that had gone into the hunting and gathering for this single outfit, it made little sense to give it short shrift by missing out on the heels.

So, after mentally promising the protesting sore muscles a rejuvenating week of flats only, the heels were again pulled on and the aft deck reached. After gossiping with Mr. Sun the day before, Mr Wind who was of the opinion “Why should Sun have all the fun” had joined us on deck and it was soon a tale of whipping pallus, hair, saris and dupattas. Any innocent bystander could have been forgiven for believing that he had meandered into the set of a Karan Johar magnum opus crossed with Spielberg’s Titanic if the poses, colours, drapes, shades, not to speak of the incessant clicks of camera phones were anything to go by. And thus, we would have continued merrily adding madness to method if it were not for a friendly visitor.

It was later revealed that the tales of our exploits and escapades had reached Arabia and caught the attention of a local Sheikh who owned four oil wells. He had immediately chartered some form of transport (whether it was a plane, yacht or good ol’ flying carpet is yet unknown) and had landed in our midst before you could say ‘Wallah Habibi!’. We were summarily herded into a vast meeting room where he not only performed magic tricks but also enlightened us about his tricks in trade which involved keeping his oil wells and large family which included four wives in some semblance of order. It was an extremely interesting hour since neither him nor us could understand each other, were it not for another even more multi-talented cardiologist who volunteered to translate and promptly got lost in translation himself. All that we were privy to was a lot of vigorous nodding and waving of the hands. The four wives were mentioned at least four times and peace prevailed. It was only when the Sheikh began to glow like a mini sun that we realized that the thawb and kaffiyeh hid the insouciant charm of our friendly anaesthetist at which point he decided to make himself scarce. A charming dance in good Indian ishtyle was sorely needed to soothe our hot sand parched selves and it was put on immediately by another friend who was as nimble and graceful with her feet as she was with her fingers.

After all the excitement of the morning, what we were looking for was a fitting finale and it happened our way in the form of a live musical in the evening to be followed by a late- night burlesque show. The little stampede for tickets which occurred would have caused many a wildebeest of the Masai Mara to doff their hats and point to us with pride. Luckily the tickets were sought, got and we were ready to settle down to the shows without a second thought. The shows were great no doubt, but what was even better was the nostalgia created by rushing to ‘catch’ the good seats so that the whole group could be seated together, the constant hubbub as people made themselves comfortable, the shifting and adjusting to make room for one more, some more selfies, the slightly ribald remarks and the whistling which now had to share space with the ‘OOOOOOOO’ yell from the movie ‘Kantara’. It was the stuff of legend, as if we had never left college after all. Long after the burlesque dancers had called it a night, some of us still stuck to our guns in refusing to call it a night, simply because we wanted to remain in this happy bubble, headier than the best champagne.

When Mumbai loomed large on the horizon the next morning, I am sure everyone longed for a time-turner, but alas, this was the one magic which was beyond the ken of even the most competent and cleverest amongst us. These short days stolen from busy lives deserved an unreserved salute. To all those who had attended from far and near and to those who could not, but were always with us in spirit. A salute to those who unflinchingly took up the responsibility of organization from the actual planning and coordination, to arranging the casks of good stuff, to all those who took photographs with uncharacteristic patience and of course all those who patiently posed for them. Perhaps our bags were a little heavier as we hauled them down the gangway, because now in addition to all that they had before, they were also filled with memories. Perhaps we had found our time turners after all, because we had discovered that we really had not changed that much at all.

When it was time to return to many different worlds, we knew that distances, designations, degrees and faces would change but one part of us would always remain the class of ’94……

Pictures: Courtsey Dr. Prasad Bhukebag and Dr. Rajeev Gothe

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A Resolution Revolution

“Many people look forward to the New Year for a new start on old habits”

Unknown

It takes a lot of time and effort to get the timing right. The New year seems to have managed it exceptionally well this year, what with New Year’s Eve falling on a Saturday which seems entirely appropriate. In addition, people (those of blessed short memory) have forgotten the virus which was a-lurking until last year and are thus set to give an entirely new meaning to the word ‘merry-making’ before you can say Ho-Ho-Ho! If the one hundred and fifty thousand drinking permits issued in the rather strait-laced city of Pune are anything to go by, I shudder to think of the situation in Delhi and Namma Bengaluru! Surely, the roads and alleys are going to be awash in the good stuff as far as the eye can see. People in the streets, wheeling and dealing and then some good old homeward reeling! Promises to be great fun.

New beginnings mean new innings, another chance to set out and achieve all that you meant to. Thus, the New Year fills me with a new found piety. Resolutely planning to turn over a new leaf and becoming the best version of myself, I plan to develop a will of iron, firmly turning my back on all that appears even faintly illicit. A cleansed person is what I resolve to become. To conveniently forget my little trysts with cleansing anything, myself included and the grief that inevitably follows in its wake. If a great Greek hero like Hercules was reduced to tears, having had to divert an entire river to cleanse the Augean stables, well to quote a Hindi saying, yours truly is a mere ‘kis khet ki muli’.

 My list of great resolutions goes something like this:

  1. Learn to wake up with the sun (in true Mumbai spirit, overtake the sun if possible)
  2. Eat healthy (nibble on salad leaves, fruit and the like. Don’t even think of Vada Pav)
  3. LOSE THE FLAB! (at least five kilograms in a month, I know I am being more idealistic than realistic)
  4. Be more assertive (read DO NOT let the spouse and offspring walk all over you)
  5.  Learn a new skill (wearing properly coordinated clothes is an important life -skill in my case)

And so on and so forth. The list of resolutions grows like Hydra heads. Chop one off and two more immediately sprout in its place.

And so, I await the New Year with much eagerness, armed to the teeth with my lists of resolutions and even a list of the lists. That I will soon be fighting a losing battle is the furthest thing from my mind, even though I have as much ‘exprience’ in this as Meenamma had in running away from home in the singularly popular ‘Chennai Express’. And so, I ring in the new with much gusto, already half-way to turning over a new leaf.

A happy week of cleansing and detoxing (which any bride-to-be would be proud to emulate before her big day) follows. The night-watchman has the pleasure of seeing me jog out of the gate at 5.30am on the dot for the first couple of days. The 5.30am gradually starts veering towards 5.45 and then 6am and the jog slows to a walk and a final crawl, until about ten days I am greeted with a “Do din se aap dikhe nahin, Madamji? Beemar ho gaye kya jaldi uth ke?” when he is about to go off duty at eight in the morning. I rub my still bleary eyes, mumble something about the offspring having an early class and vanish before he thinks of a closer cross-examination. That my arm involuntarily springs out from between the sheets at least ten times to hit snooze every ten minutes is a state secret which must never be divulged. Early January in Mumbai is a time when you are not driven out of bed because you are sweating profusely and I am determined to make the most of it.

“Do not despair” is my motto for the year. I decide that a single resolution falling by the wayside is nothing to get all hot and bothered about. Four others are awaiting to test my mettle. The healthy eating brings a howl of protest from the help, “Didi, how much salad must I chop every day? I am working overtime at your place!” The unspoken threat of claiming said overtime hangs in the air. The offspring and the spouse are vying with each other to develop new looks of deep disgust at the boiled-steamed- raw fare which is dished up in the new year, until they lose all semblance of patience and refuse to sit down at the table if a single salad sans dressing is spotted anywhere within a radius of one kilometer. I spend longer and longer hours in the kitchen soothing frayed tempers with delectable dishes, while my frayed nerves gradually get the better of me. On the day the help marches in waving her resignation under my nose, I crumble before you can say “Oh, Crumbs”, and samosa and fried fish are reinstated to power after the brief sojourn of salad and fruit.

Now that the first two resolutions have followed the divine decree of “Dust we are and unto dust we return”, the six-hundred and fifty grams of weight which I had so proudly lost promptly decides to reinvade and reclaim lost territory. Methinks Modiji should take a lesson from the lard and reclaim PoK pronto. He is sure to meet with unmitigated success. Perhaps if it is not too late to worm my way into the Padma Awardees list, I am ready to forward this suggestion to the PMO in the hopes of getting a stray one, but no joy. Giving the weighing scale a wide berth, I sadly fold up the whole new wardrobe which I had so proudly purchased and slip back into the old loose clothes who welcome me with open arms like the friends in need that they are.

Now desperate to make up lost ground, my meek self suddenly turns assertive and begins (or at least tries) to order first the offspring and then the spouse hither, tither and yon to do my bidding, both big and small. Seeing me abjectly disappointed by the short duration of my other resolutions, the offspring initially gives in with good grace because she is a sensitive little soul. The spouse in the meanwhile looks attentive, nods his head vigorously and makes himself scarce only to reappear at some unearthly hour when I have fallen asleep out of sheer exhaustion, unable to bark out orders like a field marshal or check whether he has carried out the ones issued earlier, to the letter. Barking dogs, however are known for their inability to bite and after about a week, my new assertiveness has grown old, the spouse has started showing up early and both, he and the offspring have started treating me to the familiar eyeroll and “Let us humor the lady” attitude. In response, I rollover and play dead as usual. I think the Indian Cricket Team learnt how to give a ‘walkover’ at my knee. With assertiveness dead and buried, peace reigns over the household for some time.

When I walk into the offspring’s room with my new found skill of color coordinated dressing, I am treated to the kind of explosion which was heard by the good citizens of Hiroshima and Nagasaki upon the advent of the atomic bomb. Only, in my case, it is the offspring doubled over and ROFLing (roll on floor laughing for the uninitiated) at the sight of me. “Where is my mom and what have you done with her?”, is the overwhelming question. I decide that wisdom lies in not waiting to find out the spouse’s opinion on my new found fashion sense and am back in what I usually wear before you can say ‘fashion statement’. I am only thankful that I did NOT take the hairdresser’s advice and weave a single strand of gold dye through my hair which she had so confidently marketed as ‘fetching’. I shudder to think of what he would have fetched if he’d seen me in my new colorful ‘avatar’: a straitjacket.

I manage to wallow in self-pity for some time at the extremely short duration for which my resolutions seem to last. A weak mind, a weak will, call it what you will, I am moody and sulky like a bear with a sore head for the next couple of days. No amount of reminding myself about the length for which the French and Russian revolutions lasted until they could cause even an iota of change can better my ‘ray of sunshine’ disposition. That is until a friend comes visiting bearing not just glad tidings but a large box of Biryani.

With a song on my lips and biryani on the brain, I resolve that the Resolution Revolution will live to see another day……next year!

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Stories

Seeking Shiva

“It is your last chance, I hope you understand that”, Papa’s voice was deceptively soft. I was no stranger to the implications. The angrier he got, the softer his voice grew, and the more it cut me to the quick.  Truth be told, it was a ‘Wake Up Sid’ moment for me. I was famed for vacillating between this and that, being here or there, doing something or nothing, but hardly ever making my mind. Back in unblemished childhood, I had driven Mom dotty by never being sure about what I wanted to eat. Thus, there was little chance that I would have firmly decided on my career path.

To be perfectly honest, Papa had put up with my meandering ways with considerable fortitude, an unlikely trait in a typical middle-class Indian parent. Most of my friends’ parents had been obsessively plotting the career trajectories meant to launch their respective offspring into the firmament from the day they had been born. I had escaped all this so far, but now, my streak of good-luck had finally run out. Three solid years of scraping through a management bachelors, much of which had been spent in searching for the elusive ‘hit single’ which was meant to be my glorious entry into the world of music would have worn anyone’s patience thin.

Papa had never been as madly ambitious as I was. Perhaps, he could not afford to be. Having lost his own father to the Indo-China war of 1962, at the tender age of two, much of his childhood had been spent being at the mercy of his paternal uncles. While Dadi had been fiercely protective, there was something sapping about survival on a war-widow’s pension, accompanied by constant taunts and jibes from much of her family. Dadaji had fought on a single war front and been rewarded by medals, albeit posthumously. Dadi still soldiered on, fighting her battle of the two fronts with not much to show for it. Thanks to the small pharmacy which Papa had set up in Hajratganj, we had come through the pandemic relatively unscathed. But even my hopelessly optimistic eyes could no longer house the dream of Papa’s store turning into the Poonawala headquarters overnight and making a mint by selling the Covishield vaccine to a grateful populace.

And thus, I was given an ultimatum, to find something I really wanted to do and to begin doing it pronto, or joining Papa at the store and begin learning the ropes. This trip to the Monpa stronghold in Tawang, in a final search for musical inspiration was to either make me or break me. I was following Dadaji’s footsteps, but there was little chance that I would return covered in glory. Ignominy was more my forte.

The day before I was to leave for Guwahati, I was taken aback to see Dadi lurking furtively by my door. “Did you want something, Dadi?” “Haan, beta. I wanted to give you this”. ‘This’ turned out to be a small bundle, which smelt of moldy muslin, mothballs and memories. It had two gold guineas, a letter of commendation from Dadaji’s commanding officer and a telegram from the army headquarters about Lieutenant S.S. Pant missing in action, presumed dead while battling the Chinese in the Lumla sector of NEFA. “Some things from the past to help you in the future”, she smiled tremulously. “I never knew whether he was captured or killed….my…my…my Shiva.” The fact that she had dared voice Dadaji’s name aloud was enough to stun me into silence. Lieutenant S.S.Pant, Shiv Shankar Pant, who now stared down at us from the large garlanded portrait on the wall of the drawing room. Who had been snatched away when he was only twenty- five.  Whose fate was relatively ambiguous even sixty years later. Whose widow had never been granted permanent closure of an old wound and whose son had grown up craving this very permanence instead of dreams at the end of a mythical rainbow. Yes, S.S.Pant’s destiny cast a shadow far longer and darker than evident at first glance.

“I know Ravi has given you a fortnight to get back, but beta, stay a little longer if necessary. Find out about what happened to your Dadaji. These gold coins should help you tide over things”, again the watery smile. “I will explain things to Ravi and hold the fort for you.” Her confidence in my seemingly Feluda like sleuthing abilities were definitely misplaced. But I could only think of what the extended time meant for me. I could stay longer and work on my music, perhaps even visit Shillong. I was no longer Manish Kumar Pant, but Rahul of Chennai Express fame, singing “Goa is on, Goa is on”, only Goa had been replaced by Tawang in my case.

It was thus in a happy haze of anticipation and filled with good intentions that I arrived in Tenga, on my way to Tawang, hoping to make short work of Dadi’s task for me. My mind was already thrumming with all the tunes that I had overheard on the way……

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I woke up and stretched as the early rays of the sun fell directly on my face. I had lost count of the number of times I had told Ma to keep the curtain in my room pulled over the window. But she continued on her merry way, to make sure that I awoke at the crack of dawn. That east-facing window was the bane of my mornings. I doubted whether there was any other twenty-five -year- old in the whole of Tenga who awoke at four thirty every morning. I had to be different. It had always been this way, ever since I was a child. Keshav, my younger brother had been the conventional one. Following Ma and Baba’s instructions to the letter, always the ‘good boy’, the one who could do no wrong, now a respectable forest officer, working day and night in the wilds of our untamed forests.

Ma blamed my name for every unconventional thing I did. She blamed my name for my nomadic ways, for my love of music and for my unpredictability. She blamed it for everything that went wrong in my life, from my being caught by forest officials while catching Mahaseer in the Kameng river, for my being caught with a joint in my hand by the principal of my junior college before being booted out for good and of course for my ‘risky’ job of driving tourists all around the north-east. Baba listened placidly to her tirades, finally muttering “Thank Shiva, we did not name him Bhairav. He would have murdered someone every day to fulfill his role as destroyer”, when she ran out of breath. Yes, life for me was like the twisting mountain roads which drove me as mush as I drove them: arduous, but full of adventure.

Exploring the unknown was the only way I could tame my restless spirit. Now that Keshav was a forest officer, I had given up my more reckless ways like fishing in prohibited waters or taking photographs where they were banned for fear of my misdeeds catching up with him. But despite being the chalk to his cheese, we were very close to each other. It had always been an unspoken pact between us to have each other’s backs at all times, to stick up for each other and to keep each other’s secrets even on pain of death. We knew everything about each other: liquor and cigarette stashes, crushes and girlfriends, several misdeeds, secret ambitions, hopes and dreams.

Lost in my thoughts, I almost forgot that I had to pick up a new guest and drive him first to Lumla and then Tawang. Cursing under my breath, I noticed that it was almost 6 am. He must have been cooling his heels in Tenga Haat for at least half an hour now. A glance at my mobile showed that there had been no missed calls. Had he forgotten, or had I? I hastily pulled out the details I had been given by the agency. Manish Kumar Pant, twenty- two years old. Hmmm…it would be interesting to ferry around someone so close to me in age. Or would he be a typical loud and proud plainsman? Disparaging of everything? Calling us ‘Chinky’ or ‘Chili Chicken’? Asking us when we would be helping the Chinese take over India? I hoped not. I had already been chastised for a few verbal duels and a close-to-a fist fight with a couple of such specimens. If I had not been such a good driver, the agency said, I would have been out in the blink of an eye. As it was, I was on my last chance.

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“Stupid sleepy driver!”, I had forgotten the number of times I had cursed under my breath which was freezing in the bitter winds blowing down the hill. A native of Lucknow, I was no stranger to cold. We approached near-freezing temperatures many times in the harsh winters of the North Indian plains, but this mountain wind was something else. It whistled its mournful moan like a ghost about to possess you and then it did creep into your very bones, chilling not just your marrow, but also your soul. As I stamped my feet on the narrow path in front of the Tenga Haat war memorial, I felt as if I would never be warm again. Maybe this was Dadaji’s idea of a joke. Or maybe he was messing with my Rahul-like plans of not expending much time on finding out what had really happened to him and utilizing all my resources on my music instead. If this was the kind of place that he had had to stay with next to nothing to keep him warm, he had every right to be cranky with me as I assumed he was trying to be. In his shoes, I would have gladly pushed anyone over the nearest hill just to get at his jacket to keep me warm.

When I had begun to believe that my breath would finally escape my body in a frozen chunk of ice, I saw the dim headlights of a beat-up Innova wavering towards me in the semi-gloom. The car shuddered toa stop and a tall, lanky figure clad in thick jeans and a leather jacket jumped out and rushed over to me. “Good morning”, said the young man who appeared to be a few years older. His leathery, weather- beaten face was wreathed in smiles and his eyes twinkled with mischief. Despite being quite disgruntled, I couldn’t help being warmed by his obvious charm and my grimace thawed into the ghost of a smile. “I am unforgivably late, but I overslept. I am sure you must have done it yourself sometimes, Sir”, I was taken aback at his obvious command over English. He thrust out his driver’s license and the letter from the travel agency by way of further introduction. Shiva Tamang said both. He was my long- lost driver and guide and as he hurried my semi-frozen carcass into the car and poured out a cup of sweet chai from a small flask kept in the drink holder, I could not sulk anymore.

By the time I finally fully returned to the land of the living, Tenga Haat was just a collection of lights fighting a losing battle against the rising sun. My spirits gradually rose with each twist of the road which carried us higher and higher into the Eastern Himalayas. The music system in the car warbled incessantly as Shiva tried to find the perfect combination which could be soothing enough to uplift my flagging spirits. Although the conversation was decidedly stilted at first, I decided that it would be idiotic to stay uptight and aloof if Shiva was to be my friend, philosopher and guide through this previously unexplored terrain. My management course had tried to teach me sales and marketing well and after listening to Papa’s shop-floor patter, I was a confident enough conversationalist who could even coax a few words out of a statue. People liked to talk about one thing in particular: themselves and Shiva was no exception. Soon, we were chattering away like old friends. The bleak mist of the morning had fallen away before the rising sun after all.

When Shiva heard that I was here to hunt chiefly for music among other things, he was overjoyed. “Music hamara bhi favorite hai, Sir”, he said. “Tum kya sunte ho?”, I asked. In reply, Arijit Singh’s warbling was replaced by the earthy tune of a Nepali folk song. The words were alien, but then, music transcended language. I could feel the emotions of the song through the plaintive tune which spoke of love and longing, but also of loss. I could picture Dadi singing it when Dadaji was posted far away. Lost in my thoughts, I allowed myself to drift for some time, until colorful bunting and a blindingly white tower announced the presence of the Nyukmadong War memorial.

I wandered around the memorial, heart full of pride, but empty at the same time. Lieutenant S.S.Pant, the name ‘led all the rest’ as far as Garhwal Rifles was concerned, but even the JCO who led us around the place explaining much of the Bomdila battle in great detail was unable to throw much light on the actual fate of the small company of soldiers who had set out for patrolling, had sent back messages until possible only to disappear suddenly in the thick forests which ringed the region, never to be seen again. That they had been led by Shiv Shankar Pant was known, but they were missing presumed dead as with too many soldiers in this part of the world in 1962.

As we moved on, I was more consumed by the thought of meeting a few Monpa artists than the fate of the soldiers. Perhaps Dadi would be disappointed once again.

*********************

Tawang monastery loomed over us as Shiva drove us to the small homestay which would be ‘home’ for the next couple of weeks or perhaps longer if I could get my way. I had been canny enough to avail a ‘gold loan’ against Dadi’s gold guineas back home in Lucknow just before I left. It had been with many qualms that I had looked for a small jeweler in a slightly seedy part of town, where I could be confident that no one would recognize ‘Pantji ka beta’ and had ended up having to accept slightly less than what I would have got for them at a more reputed place. But who cared?  I had the means to live as I wanted to and that was all that mattered. Befitting my grandiose plans, I had spoken to the travel agency and hired Shiva ‘exclusively’ for the next fortnight, paying well above the expected rates. I had quickly discovered that I could have no better comrade-in-arms for the many escapades which I had planned, all of which included going local: befriending the pretty girls, getting drunk on the local beer and of course, dancing clumsily to the many local tunes. The progress from Sir and Shiva Ji to Manish- Shiva Bhai-Bhai had been gradual but steady. The only dark cloud was that we were near Chinese territory and we both knew how Hindi-Chini Bhai-Bhai had ended.

Before I knew it, a week had flown past and though I had added a few new brews to my almost encyclopedic knowledge of different beers and a few more pretty girls to my list of ‘conquests’, I was no closer to finding the tune for my ‘hit single’ than I was to finding out what had happened to Dadaji. Days were spent ‘sight-seeing’, which meant visiting the monastery, the Bumla Pass, the Tawang war memorial and several other touristy spots. The nights…the nights were different. Visiting local settlements and taverns, sitting under a sky filled with so many stars that I felt capable of reaching out and picking a few, the glow of the beedi dangling from Shiva’s mouth or mine, moths fluttering around our heads and walking for miles through the darkened streets, playing hide and seek with shadows.

Each new day dawned early enough to bring several promises, but each night also came earlier and earlier, accompanied by incessant and increasingly frantic phone calls from home, which I tried to avoid because I couldn’t face either Papa or Dadi. Too many hopes and great expectations seemed ready to crush my fragile dreams. About ten days later, I realized with a shock that even Dadi’s supplies were running low and I only had the resources to stay for precisely eight more days. Now, another emotion added itself to the vortex: despair, for time knew to travel only in one direction, forward and at a single pace, which was too fast for me.

If Shiva noticed the gradual bleakness of my mood, he didn’t say much. But I knew he felt for me. His way of dealing with difficult stuff was to think up wilder and wilder capers to take my mind off things and that is what he did. We were to go hiking near the Jang waterfall and then catch Mahseer in the river if we could escape the eagle eyes of the guards, one of whom happened to be Keshav. But all that was happening tomorrow. Tonight, our haunt was the tiny hamlet of Shyo, situated in the thick pine forests which ringed Tawang. Moonlight on our heads, moonshine in our glasses and pretty girls to sing some more Monpa songs. It was enough to make Papa and Dadi fade into the background for the time being.

**************************

As Manish and I trekked through the thick undergrowth, heads pounding almost in unison with the mother of all hangovers, I wondered what he was thinking. For once, I had seen the serious side of him. For the past two days, he had haunted the Tawang War Memorial and spoken to every army man who would listen to him. He had even managed to unearth an old photo of his grandfather after haranguing the officer at the headquarters, but everything seemed to have now reached a dead end. A closed file was a closed file and it looked as if Manish would bid goodbye to our part of the world with just an old photograph as keepsake. No amount of Monpa music could rouse him from the rut he seemed to be stuck in. What surprised me was his remarkable tenacity for authenticity. “The tune has to appeal to the heart, Shiva Bhai”, he said “I am not so shallow as to market remixes as my own”. “Or lie to Dadi”, he added in such a quiet undertone that I thought I must have imagined it. Well, his idyll would be over soon and we would both return to our humdrum lives. He to the shop and me to the road.

Just as I was about to call him to the water’s edge, we heard it simultaneously, a flute and a drum, echoing out from the end of a dark little path which lost itself in the bushes. Manish seemed to be in a trance as he started walking down it. I tried valiantly to pull him back, the woods watching us with a million eyes. Left with no choice but to follow him even though commonsense told me to take to my heels, I crept forward. Now, Hindi words seemed to be accompanying the haunting music and Manish was drawn to them like a filing to a magnet.

I caught the gist of the song which seemed to talk of walking many roads at once but the need to pick the one which led to what you wanted the most.  A dilapidated hut loomed out of the trees suddenly, its windows glowing like the glaring eyes of an evil monster. The door was open. We caught a glimpse of two ancient bent figures, one with a flute at his bloodless ghoulish lips and another playing a drum with withered fingers which looked like curved talons, while singing in a raspy yet strangely tuneful voice. I grabbed Manish just as he was about to climb the rickety steps to the crumbling verandah. “Pagal ho gaye kya, Manish Bhai? Jante bhi hai, ye insaan hai ki bhoot?”, my voice sounded as dry as sandpaper, thanks to a throat parched by fear.

He blinked. Looking more like himself and less like sleep-walker, he stopped, if only to glare at me. “I have heard that song sometime in my childhood”, he whispered angrily. I dragged him away with a strength born of utter desperation. If anything happened to him, it would not just be my last chance with the agency, but with the police as well. “Let us scout around first. Let me call Keshav. He was going to be patrolling in the vicinity. He will have some back up”. Luckily, he listened and we backed further away. As was expected, there was no signal in this neck of the woods and I adamantly retreated further and further until I found one. “Near the waterfall Bhai? Don’t worry, I am near chota tila. Don’t explore until I reach you”, never had Keshav sounded so grownup or so reassuring or so authoritative.

Sure enough, he turned up half an hour or so later, by which time the music had died away leaving us in a silence which was more eerie than the sound. “Thank God you did not venture into the hut”, he said no sooner he saw us. “Budhe Baba ka jhopda we call it, up at the ranger station. The two old men who live there seem harmless enough, but they have been known to attack strangers who barge in suddenly. Recently, an American barely escaped after one of them decided to take a pot-shot at him with an ancient .303 rifle. They have been living there for as long as anyone remembers.”

A rustling made me turn towards where Manish had been standing only a moment before. He was now making a dash towards the hut like a man possessed. Keshav and I hurtled after him but, he had covered too much distance for us to bridge the gap. As we watched in wordless horror, he dived headfirst into the hut and sitting down with the two silent ghostly figures, began singing as if he had been accompanying them all his life.

 **************************

                                       SIX MONTHS LATER

As the band tuned up to play my hit single for the jawans, I could not help glancing at the Tawang War Memorial rearing its majestic head in the distance. Any Rahulesque and rebellious tendencies which both Shiva and I had harbored had been laid to rest because we were offered another chance not just at music, but at building the lives we loved. Shiva appeared totally at ease with the guitar and as his raspy voice rang out with the familiar story of many roads, I could not help recalling the path through the forest which we had walked together. Which had led me to two ancient villagers who had been with Lieutenant S.S Pant through thick and thin, until he had fallen to Chinese bullets not far from where they now chose to live, keeping his memory alive in that most ancient of all languages, his music…

While seeking one, I had found two Shivas, one in the past and one in the present…..

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Articles Travel Article

 A Happier Horizon

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes”

Marcel Proust

Adventure and travel serve to awaken. Understanding different cultures, life styles, languages, landscapes and food not just broaden horizons, but give fresh perspective to jaded and mundane everyday sights. Perhaps the greatest take- away of travel is that the world is vaster than imagined and most of us are mere specks floating along on the winds of chance and change, soaking up different experiences and emotions: excitement, tranquility, patriotic fervor and rage, which strangely combine to give rise to contentment.

Just when I thought that life had settled into its humdrum and even keel, fate, that capricious mistress, shepherded me to a land so enchanting that it could have been something out of a dream. A land of inspiration, of beauty, once torn apart by war but now glowing with a hard-won peace. A land far to the east, India’s very own salute to the rising sun, Arunachal Pradesh.

It had not been without a lot of trepidation that I set out eastwards on this trail, literally trailing the spouse, having left a rather disgruntled offspring behind in the care of a venerable parent, both fending for each other on the West Coast. The mere thought of having to undertake an entire day’s journey back were anything to go wrong on the home front had already left me with a slightly hollow feeling in the pit of my stomach. I needed much more than a wheel and a prayer, or so I thought. Little did I know that I would be encountering both soon enough, lots of wheels enclosing prayers, the fabled prayer wheels of the Buddhists, and so much more besides.

While driving through the lush green foothills of the eastern Himalayas in the tea garden state of Assam carried a soothing charm of its own, it was the tantalizing glimpses of snow- capped peaks far on the horizon which were truly awe inspiring. That we were to scale those lofty heights in as little as three days and try to discover the stories that these silent sentinels had to offer, left not just the head, but also the mind slightly dizzy.

Unlike Oliver Goldsmith’s famous play, there was no stooping but floating down the impossibly blue Kameng river, serenaded by bird song and rocked by eddies and swirls to conquer the windswept mountainsides which dared us to summit them.  It was a convoy of sturdy vehicles, expertly steered by even more sturdy helmsmen that began the ascent, brows knitted and teeth gritted, in concentration. The drive became one of the most enduring images of the whole journey: the endless road, flanked by impossibly tall craggy summits, covered in forests in varied shades of green, some dappled, others dull and yet others full of vibrancy. Images whirled past outside the windows, lit by a sun which seemed to have forgotten the advent of winter. The sky was deep turquoise, fading to a mild cornflower in the distance, shades of blue which I did not believe existed in nature, until I saw them for myself in this part of the world.

As the way wound deeper into the state and scaled the heights, I decided to stop furiously clicking pictures and capture what I could in my mind’s eye instead, to be perused mentally at leisure, like a favorite sepia tinted album, glowing with the gentle patina of wistful memory. For every view was a picture post card to city dwellers, like most of us. Picturesque little hamlets dotted the Dirang valley, flanking crystal- clear rivers forded by rope- and-wood foot- bridges. Guest houses boasted orchards laden with kiwis, persimmons, pomegranates and sweet lime. Women wrapped in shawls calmly went about, diligently constructing roads, with rosy cheeked toddlers strapped to their backs. Yaks could not even be bothered to lift their heads to looks at us, used as they were to gawking touristy crowds. Tall stalactites of icicles clung to rocky outcroppings like giant, upside down, gleaming swords and sabers.  Monasteries reared their tall slanted roofs, trimmed in gold paint and teeming with prayer wheels inscribed with ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’, an enormous statue of the Buddha holding sway inside. Thanks to friendly monks, we were able to discern quite a few of the meanings of the icons, statuary and history within. A quaint museum attached to the Tawang monastery offered insights into the life and times of the old Buddhist dynasties which once ruled this part of the world.

Once called NEFA (North-East Frontier Agency), Arunachal Pradesh does such a wonderful job of hiding its war-ravaged face under its pristine natural beauty and sweet- natured people, that were it not for the constant convoys of army trucks, defense stations, battalions and war memorials galore, it would have been almost impossible to recognize it as the same place stained with the blood of more than two thousand martyrs of the Indo-China war of 1962.  Abandoned stone bunkers dotted the hills, gory ghosts of the past, mute witnesses to a war fought against horrendous odds, thanks to the short-sight and misplaced confidence on so called ‘moral high-ground’ of the powers that were in Delhi back then. The heart wept and blood boiled for those brave soldiers of ours who sacrificed everything at their disposal (and trust me it was pitiably little in terms of the equipment provided), including their lives, so that an entire generation of Indians could grow-up in peace. The sound of their eternal silence reverberated from the walls carved with the names of the fallen in the Tawang war memorial arousing that much more patriotism in our voices when we proclaimed “Bharat Mata ki Jai” at the end of the unforgettable light and sound show, which was completely worth the wait in the bitter night winds.

That the dark hour of defeat had passed giving rise to the dawn was evidenced soon after, when we visited the Bumla Pass. If the rapid work of the Border Roads Organization and morale of the Indian troops who guarded this part of the Indo-China border was anything to go by, it was clear that lessons had been learnt from a dark chapter of our history. It was even clearer in the confident way a lone interpreter was replying to a Chinese soldier who was in the middle of a voluble tirade regarding some construction over the border. New India flexed its muscles in the deep baritone of the brave heart who told us that the Chinese were friends as long as they stayed on their side of the border, but should they repeat the folly of crossing over ‘to the other side’, they would be summarily dispatched to another unearthly realm permanently.

The calmness of such beautiful lakes like Sungester Lake, Sela Lake (at the enchanting Sela Pass with its backdrop of yet another haunting war story) and the Pang Tseng Tso Lake drove home the truth that long after we were conscribed to distant memory, this land would still remain blessed as it deserves to be. That vast fields of icicles and massive snowscapes would still melt into rills and springs which would keep gurgling their songs as they tripped over smooth stones to find eternity. That this region is home to more than a hundred tribes, each with their own costumes, traditions and language was delightfully depicted by the Monpas, who danced their traditional dances for us to the beat of folk music, just as it had been played for aeons.

It was only on returning and seeing the sun set over the Western hills that the true legacy of Arunachal Pradesh unfurled gradually, like a flower awakening with the light. It was felt in the company of the wonderful people I travelled with, in  Shiva Gurung and his comrades, who drove us safely over treacherous terrain and gave us impromptu local history and Nepali folk music lessons, in all the home stay hosts who fed us simple but wholesome fare flavored not just with fiery chilies, fragrant rice, savory yak cheese and robust wild mushrooms, but also with their affection, in bowls of steaming, spicy thukpas and momos, in the glow of wood fires lit to ward off the cold, in the night sky awash with a million stars, the mighty Jang waterfall cascading down in a roar of misty sound and in the silhouette of the soldiers on sentry duty unblinking eyes on the far horizon, so that we slept in peace.

Perhaps a lot has changed since Rajendra Krishan wrote the famous song ‘Jahan daal daal par sone ki chidiya karti hai basera’, but he must have had this land in mind when he chose to write:

‘Jahan Suraj sabse pehle aakar daale apna phera

Wo Bharat desh hai mera!’

 To my everlasting good fortune, I visited this happier horizon.

Pictures:  Kind courtesy of Dr. S.Soppimath

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Poem

Nostalgia

As twilight sets in and dusk begins to deepen,

The mind wanders homewards

Looking for memories which happened.

Some live close to surface, others buried deep

Some merry peals of laughter

Some to make you weep.

Some skimming the mind with tiny pricks of regret

Others anchored inside

Lest you should forget.

Some shimmer like dew drops in the cobwebs of yesterday

Others like gaping holes

Where happiness was torn away

They will trap you with their siren song

Don’t dwell on them, they say

Wander too far in their marshes and you will lose your way

Look ahead, move on, keep the past in the past

Only carry the good with you

For life’s landscape is vast.

Good memories strengthen belief in the joy that life offers

They are treasures that yesterday left

To fill tomorrow’s coffers!

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Stories

A Stitch In Time

Nivedita looked out of the window. As twilight engulfed the city, lights had started winking in several windows. The western sky looked like a smudged palette of warm colors gradually giving way to cool ones. Orange giving way to pink which gradually deepened to blue and purple. Back home, Mom would have taken a look at the sky and gone foraging for plump mackerel in the fish market the next day. “A good month for the mackerel, when the sky is painted like this. That’s what my aunts always told me”, she had repeated this to Nivedita so many times, that Nivedita could not stop muttering this mantra involuntarily whenever she saw this panorama. Of course, this had been back home in Goa. Delhi was too far away and too far inland to boast of anything but well- preserved sea-food. Here, fresh sea-food meant something kept on a slab of ice for two days, not hauled to market from the docks in twenty minutes.

The blue and purple were rapidly replacing the pink and orange now. Just like the frenetic Delhi way of life had replaced her laid back ways. Nivedita could hardly recognize herself these days. The face with its wheatish complexion, large dark eyes, snub nose and black curls was familiar enough, but the attitude was unrecognizable. She had grown tougher. A brash new persona had replaced the diffident one. A person who thought nothing of voicing her opinions, irrespective of whom they offended. But most importantly, never backing down from a challenge, the bigger and more impossible seeming, the better.

This hour and this month were kind to the city, she mused, as more and more lights winked on. It was that time when early winter approached on noiseless paws, the time of the golden fall which existed in the much- romanticized world of cinema and foggily happy memory. It was too early for the stubble burning and the wheezing and the reports of ‘fog over Delhi delays flights to all corners of the known world’. The city was decked up like a new bride. The ‘season’ had begun. Cultural, festive, and literary activities of all sorts, coupled with exhibitions of all kinds, food fairs and of course the annual fashion shows. When one was pursuing a Masters in Design at NIFT, one had to keep abreast of all such fashion launches and lunches.

 Normally, Nivedita’s thoughts calmed down with the deepening twilight. Unlike some who were inspired by the dawn, she was inspired by dusk, which she somehow related to homecoming. But today, they refused to be lulled. They were as jumbled as the colorful skeins of silk which she kept in a large basket in her room. Distilling the essence of the lights, the colors of the sky, her Goan home, and traditional weaves, they gave rise to a new pattern, mostly blue and grey like her mood, but shot through with cheerful yellow, like hope and happiness had turned up hand-in-hand with gloom and were clamoring to be let in. She shook her head in dismay. She liked everything to be neat and orderly, like threads on a loom, where warp and weft gave rise to a definite pattern. A jumbled abstract and you never knew what would emerge. She finally acknowledged the real reason behind her confusion and accompanying unhappiness. An email had just arrived from her aunt requesting (actually commanding) her to design a one- of- a- kind outfit for her cousin Nandini’s convocation in December.

She grabbed her sketch book and drew a few swift lines in charcoal, imagining Nandini, of the svelte, tall build, dusky complexion and long hair. An inward giggle surfaced at what the serious fogies at the convocation would think if the apparel was too avantgarde. Maybe, they would finally get a life by first goggling at the outfit and then talking about it for days. But the designs did not deign to flow. Her inability to refuse her aunt’s request point blank made her head pound in frustration. Self-loathing and the attendant negativity make for powerful dampers to creativity.  

An hour later, she was still at her desk, her eyebrows knit in frustration. Although the color scheme was right, she could not visualize the right effect on any fabric. She nearly slammed her laptop shut, but caught herself in time. The last time she had done that, the laptop seemingly possessed of a cranky will of its own, not unlike hers, had called it a day and she’d nearly wrecked her project. This was not going to be easy.

She had had a prodigious memory for colors and weaves ever since she was a child. She was happiest twirling around in silks, whenever she could get a hold of the sarees from her mother’s or aunt’s cupboards. The visits to the temple of the family deity had been special not because she was particularly pious, but these visits meant that she could feast her eyes on the sarees and jewelry which always adorned the idol of the Goddess. Photography was strictly forbidden in the temple, but she been unable to help herself on a couple of occasions and had taken the forbidden photos, thanks to the ubiquitous cell phone. Her uncle had been particularly unhappy because he had had a lot of explaining and apologizing to do to the head priest, thanks to her flouting the rules with impunity.

As she sat there in the dark, blinking bleary eyed at the screen, she felt herself being sucked into the whirlpool of old memories, from which she had extricated herself with much difficulty when she had finally fled her old life to a new one in where else? New Delhi!  As the pictures of the past swirled before her eyes, she saw herself as a wide-eyed seven- year-old, clapping, as Nandini, her nine- year- old cousin was awarded the general proficiency prize for topping her class for the academic year. For a couple of months after that, the entire household comprising her father, uncle, aunt, grandparents had extolled Nandini’s achievements to anyone who cared or did not care to listen. Her second-place award in art lay neglected in her cupboard. Mom took it out and polished it and smiled encouragingly but, the damage had begun. It was Nivedita’s first remembered encounter with unfavorable comparison.

And from then on, it never stopped. She was exhorted to become ‘just like Nandini Didi’, who soared from one academic achievement to another, which finally culminated in her securing admission in the All- India Institute of Medical Sciences, Rishikesh, having performed splendidly in her medical entrance exams.  Nobody with the exception of her mother stopped to think that Nivedita’s interests lay elsewhere, in the world of art, rather than academics. “Who is she trying to be? Raja Ravi Verma or M. F. Hussain sans the beard?”, the rest of the family scoffed. “Tell her to study well and not waste so much time in drawing, Vishakha. Art is okay as hobby, not as a profession unless she wants to study architecture”, this was her grandmother, who thought that being a professor of mathematics gave her the right to offer her opinion on all things under the sun.

But her family with the exception of her mother failed to realize that their hopes were a crushing burden on little Nivedita, who wanted nothing else other than to design beautiful clothes. Her hands wanted to wield scissors and a sewing machine. Not a scissors and a scalpel. She wanted to stitch intricate patterns on cloth, not on the skin. She cringed whenever her father looked at neat patterns she stitched and declared that she had inherited the ‘nimble fingers of a surgeon’. It was only when her performance in Class Ten had been far less than stellar had the rest of her family reluctantly accepted the fact that she would not follow in Nandini’s footsteps. As the number of articles earmarked for her in the newspaper slowly waned and her views on many topics like politics and music were dismissed, she started to rethink what she meant to them. Black sheep like her were created, not born.

The final straw had been when she announced her desire to apply to the NIFT. “Masterji, who owns the corner shop is a fashion designer too. Old as the hills and still stitches my blouses perfectly”, sniffed her aunt, a smug look on her face which declared that she was indeed blessed to have a daughter, who was a ‘sound person’, unlike her frivolous niece. “Not everyone becomes Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla. And look at those wretched models of that Sabyasachi. Chee, chee! What is the world coming too”, her uncle pitched in.

Dad’s shoulders slumped in defeat the day her application was accepted. It was a grey rainy day in September four years ago when she boarded the flight which would spirit her away to the land of her dreams, accompanied only by her mother. Her father had unearthed a conference which he just had to attend. The rest of the family had not even bothered to come up with convincing excuses, just heaved a sigh of relief that she, the blot on the family escutcheon was making herself scarce. It very different from the time when Nandini had journeyed to AIIMS, when the atmosphere had been carnival-like. The whole family had happily taken a week’s holiday to see her off and settle her in. The turbulent flight to Delhi was just a reflection of her mood and thoughts. She had decided that visits home would henceforth be very few, far between and very brief. Not to be undertaken unless absolutely necessary.

And that was exactly what she had done. She knew Mom would have liked her to come home more often, but being Mom, she always put Nivedita’s happiness before her own. She journeyed to Delhi to visit Nivedita as often as she could. She was that single strand of silk, flimsy as hope, but strong as courage which kept Nivedita rooted to home. But now, home had come knocking at her doors. The family would be journeying to Rishikesh en masse and they would ‘swing’ by Delhi first. Her life was swinging by its threads again…….

The Pais were an excited lot as the plane banked for the final approach to the New Delhi runway. The briefest of stops here and they would soon be on their way to their real destination: Rishikesh. That magnificent town in the Himalayas, so pure, so serene and so different from where they lived, Panaji. While Rishikesh boasted of the Ganga, Panaji lay on the shores of the sea. One was a haven of cold clear and crisp mountain air while the other was home to balmy sea breezes. One was a temple town. The other, a bustling capital city. None of this mattered to the Pais however. They were only concerned about the thread connecting the two: Nandini of the meritorious achievements, soon to graduate from AIIMS.

“I hope Nivedita has kept the dress ready. I had emailed her ages ago. Is she still as forgetful, Vishakha?”, Shreejaya, asked her co-sister, in an arch tone meant to needle and a smile meant to lacerate as the Innova ferrying all of them to the NIFT from the airport nosed out into the traffic making vain attempts at gathering speed. Vishakha, however possessed of a calm the Himalayas would have been proud of, refused to be riled and rise to the obvious bait. “I am sure she will have remembered, Vahini. She always keeps her promises, even the unpleasant ones”, her tone held just a hint of admonishment for her co-sister’s sarcasm at her daughter’s expense. Vaman, Vishakha’s husband, cleared his throat in an attempt to douse the potential storm which was brewing. “Let us get to the NIFT as quickly as possible. We don’t want to miss the train to Rishikesh”. Madhav, his older brother and Shreejaya’s husband wore a disapproving frown. “If Nivedita had agreed to come to the airport as I had suggested in the first place, we wouldn’t have had to go all the way to NIFT. But she will never listen”. He looked pointedly at a train of reluctant miserable looking mules being herded by a gaunt man in a faded lungi of questionable vintage, who seemed rather free with curses and thwacks from the long staff he carried.

Vishakha flinched. Her brother-in-law would never acknowledge that the mules moved reluctantly because of the thwacks, not because they were mulish. The Innova suddenly surged ahead as the traffic cleared and soon, they were passing through tall gates topped by an even taller board reading “National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi”, leading onto the sylvan environs which Nivedita had called home for the past four years. Madhav, Shreejaya and their parents peered around in surprise. This was the first time that they had visited the Institute where their younger grand-daughter studied. The quirky buildings and the bustle were something which struck them as rather strange. They had never thought of college campuses as fun, exciting places, where students could have a good time in their pursuit of knowledge. Perhaps the strait-laced disciplines and strait-laced times when they had graduated had made them think of college campuses as dour buildings where one only pursued the worship of Saraswati. That learning could and should be made as enjoyable was a possibility which did not occur to them at all.

“This campus looks vast. Will Nivedita be waiting for us?”, Chandrakala, Vishakha’s mother-in-law turned to her with a frown, phrased as a question. “She said she would meet us”, Vishakha mumbled in an undertone, before directing the driver in the direction of the hostel. “We don’t have much time”, Yeshwant, her father-in-law boomed, as she peered around uncertainly, hoping to spot her daughter so that the melodrama could be as brief as possible. Vishakha knew that their train would not leave for another five hours, that they could easily spend some time trying to thaw the block of ice which seemed to have replaced her daughter’s heart. By exploring the campus and getting to know what her artistic daughter truly did. But she also knew the kind of churlish people they were. They disapproved of Nivedita for following her dreams and nothing could convince them that her dreams were worth embracing too.

They had pulled up at the hostel by now and Vishakha alighted uncertainly, fumbling in her bag for her mobile. Nivedita should have been here by now. Or was she taking some perverse joy in keeping them all waiting in a place which they disapproved of? Hurt could harden into strange emotions which could make one behave in a way which was totally out of character. “The person you are trying to reach is out of coverage area”, after listening to this message a couple of times and feeling the waves of heat emanating from the car gradually raising the temperature of the chill Delhi morning, Vishkaha decided to call Manpreet, Nivedita’s ‘roomie and mate’. It had been under Manpreet’s able wing that Nivedita had transformed into the confident Delhiite from the diffident Goan.

“Auntieji, tussi kab aaye? Phone karna tha. Main gate pe aa jati receive karne”, Manpreet materialized at her shoulder before she had dialled the number. “I am so glad to see you, Manpreet. Nivedita kidhar hai? We have just come to pick up the dress she had designed for her cousin’s convocation. We are to travel to Rishikesh today”, Vishakha began her fumbling explanations. She always found the slight disapproval in Manpreet’s direct stare disconcerting, as if Manpreet was privy to the way Nivedita had been slighted at home, as she perhaps was, deserved to be. All boats cast adrift looked for a safe harbour and Manpreet was Nivedita’s.

“Haan, haan, woh sab to theek hai Auntieji. Nivedita has not done much else for the past two weeks. But yesterday, a strange thing happened. Aap chalo aur dekho. Nivedita will probably kill me, but I think she deserves it”, Manpreet’s words made no sense to an already bewildered Vishakha. “Is Nivedita alright? Nothing is wrong with her?”, Waman’s worried voice sounded behind her. “Arre nahin Uncleji! Tussi fikar na karo”, Manpreet sounded as reassuring as a twenty-two- year- old with a ton of attitude could sound.

“Then where is she? She was supposed to meet us near the gate”, Madhav and Shreejaya had as usual leapt into the conversation before they looked. “We will be late for our daughter’s convocation. She studies in AIIMS Rishikesh, you know”. Manpreet’s scowl of disapproval did not need deciphering. “So”, it said, “You are the people who tend to make my friend’s life hell”. Without a word, Manpreet turned on her heel and marched of leaving them to trail behind her like a wake, part worried and part disapproving.  Manpreet marched into a low red-brick building, marked ‘Director Office and Exhibition Hall’.

She opened the door quietly and motioning them to be quiet led them to a few seats right next to the door, in the very last row. The centre of the hall was filled with glass cases with various pieces of fabrics, which glistened and shone in the glow of the soft spotlights which rained down like shower of molten gold. Before they could be seated, Manpreet pulled out a few lanyards with attached cards and hastily told them to put them around their necks, so that they would not be accosted and led from the room by a posse of formidable looking security personnel, whom Yeshwant recognised to be members of the special forces. Manpreet seemed to be intently convincing one of them that the Pais were here as spectators and not potential suicide bombers.

Next to one of the glass cases stood Nivedita, in intense conversation with a plump lady in a silk saree with a large red bindi on her forehead. Seated beside Vishakha, Shreejaya drew in her breath sharply as she recognised Anandi Shetye, a minister in the Goan State Government. As Shreejaya’s lip curled in disapproval, she patted Nivedita on the shoulder before moving on to the other exhibits. As she was about to be ushered from the room, by the Director who seemed to be in transports of delight, she paused and beckoned Nivedita forward.

A mike appeared in her hands as if by magic. “It gives me great pleasure to see that a traditional weave from Goa has been tweaked to incorporate designs from one of the holiest temples of our land”, her voice was surprisingly loud for her small rotund shape. “I never thought that the humble Kunbi weave could be embellished by the design of the Bakula and Surangi flowers and incorporated into silk fabric to create a saree of which even the Goddess Shanteri would approve. But, Nivedita Pai seems to have done it. Although the first piece here is promised to her cousin as she tells me, I hope she sends in a second one to the National Textile Expo where I can proudly show it to the world as an example of what modern Goan art can be”.

 A collective sharp intake of breath was the only emotion displayed by various members of the Pai family as many of them realized the folly of comparing a rose to a lotus.  Anandi Shetye continued, “This is the talent I was looking for, which bridges the ancient and the modern. She wins the annual scholarship for best textile design for truly taking a stitch in time…..”.

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Winston Checks In!

Being incessantly stalked by a specter is spooky. Especially during the Halloween weekend. I would have thought that the unfriendly neighborhood ghost who had been mooching around had realized that I, a devout Indian Hindu did not carve out pumpkins into scary shapes, did not dress myself in strange costumes to make myself look like something which goes bump in the night (I manage that perfectly well in my normal clothes, thank you), nor did I encourage trick-or-treating. Which if you think about it, is more about tricking people into giving you treats. But this was no ordinary ghost. It was a foreign one. For a person who had drifted into the world of the living from that of the dead without a valid visa, drifting across the seven seas to India from the great kingdom of Great Britain was child’s play. Brace yourselves for this was my encounter with Winston (Churchill unfortunately), checking in to check with me, when many of us hoped that he’d checked out for good.

He gave me quite a turn, popping up out of the woodwork, more lugubrious than ever, a pink jowly face, tiny glinty flinty eyes, a cigar clamped in the bulldog jaw. Of course, smart Aleck that I am, I initially attempted adroit escape by ducking into doorways, accessing uninviting alleys and locking doors and windows. But the persistent wraith that he was, he had no difficulty seeping through walls, oozing through the flooring and generally making a nuisance of himself by materializing through seemingly solid brick-work. Finally, I realized that the only way to rid myself of this unwelcome presence was to confront him.

“What are you doing here, Sir Winston?”, (umar me tum se sau saal bade hai, izzat to deni padegi ne ben? An imaginary Modiji popped up, wagging a stern finger!) I hoped I sounded off-putting and formidable. “This is India, or what you left us of it. NOT your favorite holiday destination. And to be honest, we are not too chuffed to see you either. You are the one exception to our list of ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’. Anyway, thank God that you pitched up in Mumbai. The good citizenry of Kolkata would have lynched you, dead or not! The unfortunate victims of the Bengal famine still haunt the place. There is no room for another ghost, even an infamous one as yourself”, I was quite pleased with my opening salvo.

He flickered unhappily. “Cut to the chase, girl”, he said. “You Indians are taking over everywhere. Every time I turn around, there you people are. From Uruguay to the United Kingdom and from Norway to New Zealand, every place is overrun with you. But the reason I am here is because I can’t go home! I have been happily haunting my corner of 10, Downing Street for decades, not a care in the world when, I am rudely ousted from my place by the sudden arrival of a large loud chappie wielding a huge sword and sporting not just a bristly beard but also a terrifying turban. Calling himself the real owner of the Kohinoor! Saying that he rules the Punjab! And to rub salt, or rather onion and garlic into my wounds, the aroma of fish-and-chips and Yorkshire pudding is replaced by Sambhar and Sarson da Saag. For these smells to waft through South End is one thing, but Downing Street! It’s all thanks to that young upstart Sunak! He has turned it into Teen Murty Bhavan, thanks to that spouse and those parents-in-law of his!”

I smirked. “Well played Karma, well played”, I murmured, taking perverse pleasure in the fact that I was winding him up. “Why blow your top, Sir Winston? And why choose India to manifest? At least three other countries are fighting over themselves to lay claim to Rishi Sunak’s ancestry: Kenya, Tanzania and that infernal country you Brits birthed, Pakistan! A thorn in our side for the past seventy- five years. You could have materialized in any of them. And Sunak himself identifies as a Brit. Born in Southampton! Educated at Oxford! A member of the Conservative party! It is your party literally. And I don’t think, despite all that Trevor Noah says, Sunak is going to sell Ye Olde Country to India, at least not yet, not unless he has to!”

I don’t know if ghosts can shudder, but he looked like a candle guttering in the wind. “But he is a practicing Hindu! The next thing I know will be a cow ensconced in my old bedroom in Downing Street! Wanting hay at all hours! Mooing it’s head off until it does MY head in. And who is going to muck it out, pray? I cannot be a barnyard ghost. Not at my age!” He quivered with indignation like a half-set jelly.

“Well, a good bit of this your own fault. Brexit and Britain for the British has led to everything gradually unravelling at the seams. The United Kingdom is on its way to becoming the Untied Kingdom. Prime Ministers may come and Prime Ministers may go, but the economic downturn goes on for muuuuuuuuch longer, pardon my poetic license for mutilating Tennyson’s poem, ‘The Brook’. Food and fuel prices are up, share prices are down and you have had three different people on the job in less than as many months. Not English! Not Cricket! Not done! Someone has to wade into the muck (of human, not bovine creation) and take charge. Sunak, who doesn’t seem to mind getting his hands dirty, seems to be the man for the job at least for the moment. Remember his exploits in keeping you people afloat during the lock down for the Pandemic? If you will be at the beck and call of Uncle Sam across the pond, you will have to pay the price. And mind you, Mr. Putin is in an even more belligerent mood than he was in February! He is holding Europe to ransom and has no compunctions about it”.

I knew I had ranted enough, but could not help rubbing it in some more to this unapologetic champion of the supremacy of all things bizarrely British, who spoke with a superciliousness about ‘The White Man’s Burden’ which made me long to smack the cigar from his mouth. “Well, Rishi Sunak has moved in lock, stock, barrel and dog. So, deal with it. If Chicken Tikka Masala can be the national dish, a brown Hindu man can be the prime minister. I am sure you know that vanilla ice cream is nothing without chocolate sauce. For once, judge the chap by his deeds and not the color of his skin or his ancestry! I am sure you folk with your sense of democracy and fair play will not hesitate to give him the boot if his performance as prime- minister is below par.” He sneered disdainfully. “Oh, we will do it, don’t you worry. As you pointed out, Sunak is a British citizen who will work in Britain’s interests. You people are taking credit where none is due. How do you folk say it, “Begani Shaadi Main Abdullah Diwana!”.

Despite myself, I was impressed by the old coot’s obstinate beliefs. “Well, you seem to be picking up the lingo well, for your age”, I replied. “In spite of what you think of us, we Indians are far more pragmatic. We know better than to expect any concessions as a nation just because a man whose skin color matches ours rules the roost in a nation of pale men. We are just witnesses to the wheel of time coming full circle and as the popular ad says, we’re loving it!”.

He seemed to be growing more and more vaporous. “I am thinking of checking back in into my old haunt”, he said. “This is still unfinished business.” I could not help a smirk of my own. “Well, a Hindu might well be the final arbitrator in the appointment of the Archbishop of Canterbury”, I said by way of a parting shot and as Sir Winston Churchill checked right back into 10, Downing Street, wondering what on earth was the world coming to, I now waited hopeful that perhaps the wraith of Harry Winston, the famed jeweler would check in with me with carrying a tangible twenty carat diamond on a platinum chain in his ethereal hand for me to keep as a keepsake!

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Poem

Celebrate

When the nights lengthen and the winter comes

When sunshine is an endless wait

It is time to look at the humble lamps

Which give us cause to celebrate.

Each a sun by itself in its own little way

Brightening its own corner of the world

Lending light to guide those lost, astray

Dreams of joy in its glow aswirl.

Undaunted by the size of its diminutive flame

So puny against the raging flare of the sun

The lamp only knows to shine and light

Seeking no validation from any one!

They are not so different, the sun and the lamp

Their size and power a chance of fate

Each living to dispel the surrounding darkness

And to give us a cause to celebrate.

At peace with themselves, both seek no glory

Each happy with its unique trait

Each playing its role in the scheme of things

Each its own light to celebrate!

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A Small Price To Pay

People often looked at me as if I had lost my mind when I told them that I found Diwali depressing. Those who were kindly inclined decided that I must have suffered a personal tragedy during the festival. I could see the sympathy in their eyes which said “I can understand, you poor child. Such incidents taint even the lights of Diwali”. The reason for my dislike was not as dramatic as they imagined. It was just that I did not care much for the rituals associated with it.

For starters, I was not a morning person. Having to wake up even before the crack of dawn, when I had fallen asleep only about an hour before and taking a bath was a modified form of the water torture for me. I was a savory kind of person and the mounds of sweets which were prepared and which I was made to sample by visiting aunts, uncles, cousins and grandparents set my teeth on edge in the worst way possible.

With so many beauty products available in the market, I could not imagine why Mom was fixated on using ubtan, oil and locally made fragrant soap. Mom was quite hard hearted about the ritual bath and turned an absolutely deaf ear to my entreaties. I wailed and pleaded. I begged and cajoled. But she always had the same reply, “At least support the small local industries during the festival. They need to dispel the darkness too!”

I shuddered when I recalled the past Diwali. At seventeen and a half, I thought I was quite grown up and expected Mom to respect my wishes of waking up at my usual time of eight in the morning, festival or no festival. After all, holidays were meant for sleeping in! I had decided that I would use my new jojoba oil infused body lotion and frangipani shower gel. But Mom was quite inflexible. I woke up to find her gently but firmly shaking me at five thirty in the morning. This was the last straw. “I am glad I will not be here next year for this nonsense. The hostel seems far more inviting already”, I said in in as vicious a tone as I could muster. Her eyes held just a smidgen of hurt. “Next year is far away. Now get up. Have a bath like a good girl and put on your new Kurta”, she said as she left the room.

I stamped my foot, cursed the festival, cursed everyone under the sun and finally emerged in a black top, paired with a pair of black jeans studded with diamante` on the seams. I knew she couldn’t do much. It was my way of cocking a snook at her dictatorial ways. It was not a happy time. We bickered over local and branded, traditional and international for all four days of the festival. Both of us stuck to our guns. So much for the festive good cheer and bonhomie!

But that was the past. ‘Be careful what you wish for’, they say and this year I was to spend my Diwali all by myself in the hostel. Having enrolled in The National Law University Jodhpur, I had exactly three days of holidays and heading home, which was more than a thousand kilometers away was out of question. Mom had planned to come visiting, but with an air of false bravado, I expressly forbade her. The convenient excuse of mid term tests was trotted out. If she saw through the blatant lie and felt hurt, she did not let on. “I will send your favorite savories by courier”, she said. “Maybe I can come in November after your tests are over”. I had answered with a non-committal “Let’s see. I will let you know”.

I had already planned my day. I was going to wake up after nine in the morning, have a bath around noon with another new bottle of shower gel from The Body Shop, and not eat a single sweet. I was going to do what I chose. For once, Diwali was going to be an extended holiday with ‘nothing official about it’. I was an adult and meant to spend my time the way I wanted. A shopping spree in the evening was just what the doctor ordered! The Body Shop, Pantaloons and a million other shops beckoned with their latest trendy offerings. I thought about the sleeveless vest top which I had chosen with glee. It would go well with my cuffed pants. Mom would not be able to fix me with her disapproving stare. The only slight concession to tradition was the silver jewelry which I planned to buy in the local market. It would go well with the Gothic look I had going. Since a couple of my friends had recently been victims of online fraud after using their cards in the smaller shops, I had prudently withdrawn cash to pay for my purchases.

As luck would have it, the last lecture was cancelled.  What could be better? I returned to the hostel earlier than usual, wrapped in a happy haze. The door of my room stood slightly ajar. “Of course! Phulwa, the maid must be hard at work”, I thought as I pushed the door open. It was Phulwa all right, but she seemed to be cleaning out the contents of my cupboard rather than the room. My happy haze was instantly replaced by the red one of anger. Stealing! Two days before Diwali! After I had given her the mandatory ‘Bakshish’, before anyone else!

Storming in, I grabbed her by the shoulder. “Phulwa! How dare you?”, I was rendered momentarily speechless by my righteous anger. My carefully saved little hoard fell from her limp fingers. I snatched it up from the floor and decided that this was no time for explanations. I had made up my mind to drag her to the warden and see that she was immediately dismissed. She seemed incapable of speech too. None of the expected dramatic weeping and breast-beating with wailing requests for a pardon. She stood quietly as if turned to stone. Was that a gleam of relief that I saw in her eyes? The lawyer in me suddenly woke up to this strange aspect of a very-open -and -shut case. I shut the door and stared at her.

“Why were you stealing Phulwa? I gave you the Bakshish didn’t I?  Warden Madam might hand you over to the police. Your job is as good as gone.”. “I want to be handed over to the police, Didi”, she said in a low voice. I couldn’t believe my ears. “No one from the hostel is going to apply for bail on your behalf”, I commented acridly. “If I am punished for a year, at least I will get food to eat and a place to sleep, Didi”, she replied. “What do you mean?” I was genuinely curious. After all, Phulwa had never given anyone cause for complaint before. She was a good worker according to my seniors, and had been working in the hostel for the past two years.

“What is the matter? If you think jail is a walk in the park, then you are mistaken!”, I said. “But if I stay outside, I will meet a worse fate”, she replied in the dull voice of a person who was beyond caring.  “Sit down”, I drew up a chair and perched myself on the bed. “Tell me the real reason why you were stealing or pretend stealing or whatever it is that you were doing!”, my curiosity got the better of me. “I won’t let you go until you do”.

“Bapu owns a small store at the outskirts of the city, Didi”, she said. “We make Bandhej products like dupattas, sarees and turbans. Products normally sell well during Diwali, but the trend has been reducing for the past couple of years. Last year, our workshop caught fire. Bapu went to a cooperative credit society for a loan. But he is semiliterate. Once someone found out, they changed something in the documents. We have been paying back every month, Didi. But yesterday, some people came home and threatened us. We have to pay twenty thousand rupees in four days, or else they will take possession of everything, even our house. We have managed to raise fifteen thousand, Didi. I tried talking to all the Didis here, but nobody was ready to buy anything. I came to your room, saw your key lying on the table and before I knew it, I had opened the cupboard and taken out the money. I swear on Bapu’s head, Didi, I only took five thousand rupees.”

I counted the little bundle in my hand. Five thousand rupees. The rest of it was still in my cupboard. I had never felt more conscience-stricken in my life. Here was I, ready to blow up this money and more on some products which I could well do without, while another girl, just a little older than me stood to lose everything for want of so little. I was not ready to light diyas because I wanted fancy fairy lights which would look trendy and cool, and here she was, trying to light a small diya for her father. Someone else, who was much older and wiser had decisively won the global versus local case which had been raging since last Diwali. My arguments did not have a leg to stand on.

Mom received a selfie of me dressed in a Bandhej saree, holding up a diya, while Phulwa fed me a morsel of ghewar, at the crack of dawn on Diwali day. As I scrolled through my photos later and came across the photos of Phulwa beaming in gratitude and Mom, with unabashed pride, I knew that Diwali was always delightful, never depressing. To receive so much love, following the traditions and going local was indeed a very small price to pay.  

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Sixty Shades Of…..Shopping!

It’s silly (sorry, I meant saley) season again. Everyone and I mean everyone, the Gods included, put their heart and souls into waiting for the time of the departed souls (called Pitrupaksha) to end so that they can launch into the festive season with zeal. After all, three major festivals, all falling within a month of each other, means laughing all the way to the bank for some and crying all the way there for others. Yes, Navratri, Dussehra and the most important event on the festival calendar, Diwali are just round the corner, beckoning and tantalizing. So, it is time to toss out the rag-a-bones and waltz with the new!  And what with Bollywood holding sway over too many, Karva Chauth has escaped its geographical confines and become the festival of newly- weds everywhere. Although we don’t have a fall season, it is a pretty good time to see your bank balance fall with alarming rapidity!

The markets of course, are decked out early. Clothes of all kinds, pretty earthen ware, lanterns, fairy lights, scented candles, soaps and perfumes, knick-knacks, jewelry, sweets and mounds of dry fruit are on offer at every nook and corner. Clever builders try to make a fast buck by offering discounts on down payments to your dream home. Cleverer car salesmen follow in their wake ready to drive you to said dream home in a spanking new set of wheels of your choice. Banks scheme to offer the ‘Buy now, pay (or regret, as the case may be) later’ umbrella of schemes, too good to pass up.

With e- commerce surging ahead thanks to the recently waning pandemic, you tend to be swamped by the swelling tides of offers on all sites online. If Flipkart makes your heart go flip-flop, then the sharp snapping of the Snapdeal offers wake you up thoroughly if you were dreaming of falling asleep on the job. Myntra has its own mind-games, Nykaa nudges you in the right direction and the Amazon (site not the river, silly) swells and threatens to carry away your solvency on its tide! It’s not just the Joneses, but also the Sharmas, Varmas, Banerjees, Singhs, Baruas, Modis, Kulkarnis, Raos, Nairs and Iyers whom you run to keep up with! The only person who probably really laughs all the way to her office is Ms. Seetharaman, our long- suffering finance minister. She spots the gold, not at the end of the rainbow, but at the end of October, put there of course, by you and me!

Our ancestors were too smart to do anything without rhyme or reason. Back when we were a chiefly agrarian culture, this season meant the season of plenty, thanks to the monsoon which would have recently stopped showering its bounty. The harvest of the kharif crop was at hand. The barns and granaries were full, as were most people’s pockets. And they were ready to spend (not indiscriminately, I said they were too smart). Besides, things tended to come apart in the wet weather and needed replacement. So, to market, to market they went. The habit has remained. Although it is much bigger but not necessarily better.

We are all guilty of opening overflowing cupboards, thanks to our stashing stuff away all year long and wondering how to fit in a couple of festival newbies in them. Perhaps we could teach pack rats a thing or two! But, this ritual yearly inspection (if you happen not to get round to cleaning) helps in taking stock of what we lack and then we get down to the job of buying the missing items with gusto. Gifts, corporate or personal, make for a large chunk of what we shop for. It is guilt- free splurging when we are buying for someone else, you see!

On the personal front, I keep planning to turn over a new leaf when it comes to festival shopping, each year. With much fanfare, I make a list in the ‘notes’ section of my smart phone. This I decide, is the beginning of a new, Zen me, who lives a minimalist life. It will not be like that memorable year, when I ended up with four identical kurtas because they happened to be stashed away in the back of beyond, forlorn and forgotten! To further get my shades of shopping right, I decide that I will need to visit three markets at least. The flea market for knick-knacks, the mall for the pricier stuff and my phone for the thousand and one things which disappear from over wrought memory and which become (un)necessary online purchases. But, by the time my lists and plans are made, I realize with a start that I am as usual left with precisely ninety-six hours to get my act together.

Battling my way through all this is easier said than done. The flea market is best approached on foot, leaving the comforts of the car far, far behind! With the air of a gladiator, I plunge into the arena that is the flea market. Crowds jostle, people mill, gawkers gawk, dogs bark, vendors yell and my head swims with heady excitement and that strange smell of expectation. I stagger away with ‘knick-knacky’ essentials, and look for a rickshaw which will haul all the loot and my sorry self, back home so that I can hunt, gather and forage some more!

The mall demands a blood sacrifice before letting me into its hallowed precincts. I have to battle horrendous traffic and scrape my precious car before I can find a spot in the parking lot bursting at the seams. My car is wedged in a narrow space between a pillar and the wall and for some time, it looks like a losing battle before I extricate myself from it and stomp inside, the offspring who is giggling irreverently, in tow. The scenario here is worse because the crowds are now confined indoors, gawking at the beautifully decorated ceilings far above and nearly causing a stampede on the escalators. My well-laid plans of purposefully marching into a few select shops, going about my business with laser like focus and marching out again fly out of the window in the first five minutes. What with the glitz and the glamour and the enticing ‘sale’ signs everywhere, I forget my actual rather venerable age and act like the kid in the candy store, until the very mature offspring rebukes me sharply and tells me to put a sock on my silliness. I subside abashed. Truly, the child is the father or in my case, the scolding mother of woman.

Three and a half hours, a much- needed rejuvenating meal at the food court and several irate phone calls by the spouse later, I have shoved the thought of the much lighter bank account to the back of my mind and am trying to wedge myself into the car which is overflowing with the results of my excursion. A mental pat on the back is sorely needed, I decide, ignoring the black looks the offspring is offering. The decorations, cutlery, clothes and a majority of the gifts have been sorted or so I think. My happy trance lasts for all of the half an hour required to drive home.

Mumbai homes are cozy places with very limited spaces and I am unceremoniously jerked from my happy trance once I see the living room square footage swallowed by the fruits of my hard work. Getting down on my hands and knees, I begin the stashing exercise. As I clear away old and not-so-old stuff, I feel like the evil magician from Aladdin, exchanging old lamps (in my case literally) for new. The person who smiles beatifically in the background is the maid, as she walks away with quite a few prize- finds which I thrust at her as I follow by ‘stash and run’ policy with unerring regularity. Zen me has survived in the wilds of shopping for exactly two days.

As if I need more salt rubbed into my throbbing wounds, I discover several dry, desert islands in my sea of shopping. The tops are here, but what about the bottoms?  The beautiful Maggam work blouse does not exactly match the saree and although I have picked up six beautiful mugs from Home Center, what about the strainer I really needed? The new Amish Tripathi novel which is to be released is also sorely desired. And thus, Zen me turns into Regular me, rushing to Amazon Express armed with American Express. A cursory glance through the previous orders shows that quite a few things which I had ‘picked up cheap’ will be arriving over the next twenty- four hours.  Until now, they have been conveniently relegated to the back of my memory. But this is no time to brood. An hour of meditation (read picking and clicking on sundries) later, I feel truly cleansed. I make another of my golden resolutions: who needs the traipsing in the sweltering October heat if one can pick and click at leisure on the net from the blessed comfort of home? and hence physical shopping will henceforth be banned.

The moment of truth arrives exactly a day later when first the disgruntled spouse, and then the offspring begin arriving with large packages tucked under their arms every time they return home, both wearing identical black scowls. No amount of reassurances on my part that the yearly shopping has ‘been put to bed’ succeeds in cajoling them out of their pre-festivity blues. And as the cherry on top, I soon begin receiving frantic calls from the building supervisor regarding the number of packages which have found their way into the lobby, all bearing my name, causing an obstacle course for the elderly, amusing none and could I please take them away? I trudge downstairs to comply. I happen to meet a nosy aunty on the way back. “Oh, Diwali preparations! Been shopping?”, a loaded question if ever there was.

At last, all the shopping is put away, all the gifts sorted and everything matched and color coordinated. Clad in brand-new apparel, with a spring in my step, I set out for the ‘festive get-together’ hosted in the building. I meet a neighbor who regards me from top-to toe. “I am so glad to see you recycling everything and wearing your old clothes. Not wasting money on truck-loads of stuff! You have put out recycled diyas too!”, she says.

Luckily, she steps out of the lift before I bang my head firmly into the wall after throttling her. My face is changing color into sixty different shades of ….shopping!

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